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  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Brisbane
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    I lay 2-3 rows of tape longer than the 4 sides put together and then lay each piece down using the edge of the bench as the straight edge. No need to put tension on the tapes as when you fold the pieces together it will tension naturally. Once folded i put the box in a square corner jig and leave it to dry and if required i use 2 rubber bands to keep the corners together in case of any twists or bows. Have done this with over 300 boxes and never had a fail.
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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
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    77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Just a question about the fitting of the lid insert Alex. Do you cut all the grooves and tenons to be an exact fit (height wise) or is there some clearance on any of them? I ask because I have just been making a similar insert where I made everything fit exactly and was wondering if I was over complicating it or is that the way it is meant to be?

    Help - gluing up mitre boxes-img_3063-2-jpg
    I cut them to get a snug fit. I set the fence about as close as I can, about 1/8" from the blade, then cut two test pieces. I then adjust the fence as necessary - if the pieces fit loosely, I move the fence out a bit, if they won't fit, move it a little closer, until it's a snug fit. The lid panel needs to be able to move, but you don't want it rattling around.
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  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ballarat
    Posts
    8

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    Hi ,
    dont know if I'm too late to help but boxes are my favoured build .
    I personally prefer nylon band clamps with the corner clamp pads .About $15 on ebay . I use the tape set up on each corner to close the sides into a box ,to then check for square and measure the ply base , which always sits into a 4mm channel Lay the box open with the tape still intact on 3 corners , inner sides facing up ,size the mitres with glue and a small brush .Allow the mitres to dry then repeat and add glue to 4mm rebate..assemble 3 sides/corners ,slip in the ply base flip the last end over to complete the box .Sit the box upright and place a band clamp on the bottom of the box ,tension the clamp . NOW REMOVE the tape ,you need to see if there are gaps which the tape hides , pull the top corners in with a second band clamp . Check everything for square .Rarely do you need other clamps IF all sides and mitres are cut accurately , if they are not , you're gonna have gaps and misalignments . I also find most jigs hide the corners until its too late to fix them .

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

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    Is the 4mm rebate the 4mm channel? I can understand why you'd add glue to a single point midway where the end grain of the base sits in the channel, but not along the entire length of all 4 sides. Am I misunderstanding?

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    76
    Posts
    768

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    Rubber bands are good for clamping the box together, use the masking tape initially then clamp with rubber bands near the top and bottom.
    You can then remove the tape to check for the alignment of the joints. Office Works have a good range of rubber bands.

    Regards
    Keith

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Teven, NSW
    Posts
    179

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    I have done a lot of miter boxes and I use tape plus the Veritas 4 way speed clamp (it is item 05F01-20 in my old carbatec catalogue) coupled with a band clamp if it is a big box. Check diagonals and/or internal angles with a square. Also did a large tray top for granddaughters vanity table with splined miters glued with same clamp wwith the extension rods included with it. Tried a lot of other methods but this works for me, dead square every time.
    Cheers
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  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
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    4,677

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    I assume this is the clamp you are referring to.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,147

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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    Is the 4mm rebate the 4mm channel? I can understand why you'd add glue to a single point midway where the end grain of the base sits in the channel, but not along the entire length of all 4 sides. Am I misunderstanding?
    Best to do a groove, i do mine on the table saw and do the first cut 3mm from the bottom and then adjust the fence a mm or two and test that your base material slides easily along the groove. I use 4mm marine ply for bases and take the time to make sure there is only a .5mm gap all around. The less gap between the base edge and the side the better as this will ensure that the box cannot be out of square once glued together.
    Once i lay the 4 sides down on tape i lay a line of glue along the full length of the groove on all 4 sides and the bottom of the V so when the sides are folded together the glue will spread to the inside and any excess will be squeezed out.
    I recently bought one of those nylon strap clamps with the plastic corners and i have to say that if the mitre cuts are accurate the clamp is not needed at all but it is very useful if the material is a little twisted.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Teven, NSW
    Posts
    179

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    Yes, that is the one; I have two, often use them top and bottom of box. Sometimes in combo with a band clamp. Cheers
    This bit should be completely ignored, although I know that despite this warning, you will read it through to the very end.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Emerald, QLD
    Posts
    4,486

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrie Restall View Post
    Yes, that is the one; I have two, often use them top and bottom of box. Sometimes in combo with a band clamp. Cheers
    Likewise! Combine the speed clamps with the tape and you can just about do away with checking for square . . . . but I never would!!!
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

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