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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    939

    Default Help - gluing up mitre boxes

    Hi folks,

    Been a couple of years since I did much box making (really just been turning in that time), but I'm trying to get back into it.

    Anyone got any suggestions for the best way to glue up a carcass with mitre joints? I struggle endlessly to keep things square with top and bottom aligned.

    Is an HDPE jig the answer? Fancy expensive box clamps? 3D squares?

    Cheers,

    Danny

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
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    4,677

    Default

    Look forward to the answers here as I don't find this to be the easiest thing to do. I get there in the end but it would be good to see if there are jigs that others have made that make it easier.
    I would also be interested in what others think is the best glue for this joint. I usually use Titebond Original but on light timbers like Tassie Oak it seems to leave a black line in the joint. Maybe that is just a reaction of the glue with the this particular timber.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    geelong
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Depending on the size I tend to go with L shaped corner blocks with ratchet straps. A lot of tapping and rechecking then walk away. Smaller boxes when I was doing a few I made up a board with right angle supports and used home made cams to push the box into the corner - top I just used clamps & corner blocks. Never bought any of the systems for such things, but most you can work out how to DIY for whatever is appropriate for your'e needs.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    939

    Default

    Thanks wood spirit - I think I am failing at the walking away part, keep on tapping and rechecking and generally make things worse!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    If the box is small enough, large rubber bands are your best bet. The rubber bands apply enough pressure to a miter joint while still allowing for easy adjustments to be made before the glue sets up.
    J.Burrows No.109 Rubber Bands 500g | Officeworks

    I demonstrated how I do it in this video. I set the video to play at the time I am gluing the box up. The screws in the bench to hold the rubber band in place are highly recommended.
    YouTube

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    geelong
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    My method. Lie the box sides and ends ,mitre side down on a flat board, line them up against a straight edge make sure the mitres are tight together, stick two or three pieces of masking tape over the joints. now turn over and glue, after a few boxes you soon work out how much glue is needed. I use a steel band clamp or 2 if necessary to get the mitres tight. I use Selleys PVA exterior for everything. John.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,185

    Default

    Hi Danny, Mitre joints is not my favourite joint,...BUT, if I do any I use these.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-6M-Rapid-Corner-Clamp-Band-Strap-Clamps-Vice-Picture-Frame-Woodworking/292468305540?epid=8020497651&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4418782e84:gEoAAOSwCXhamLni&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qW%2BefuI83GztwiG8DI6kLN6EvnGXR7ceUi7GLkF6OaxcObuF2UPVY6ysyS%2FhFRbbIgeHBGDhrh7jiSDS8qQ%2F9ebiPmP9ScoiNwYPJR0z0%2BQ3rKOQ64VDmofb%2Bn09AVGosPvOzYbX7M%2B5y%2F1sd6X8TZ5r6KctRVwLsBiYQpl9YdXH7wfFWzdrb01KKuVyjeZbTIwRj4flSlyuZhZpKVP3UPij86LS7Kp3bHZ%2BTfm9sczmV1abzlIZVXInnShjyFQo77YAfNxBY3DJ8Vc%2FAh00QdCuwhuvrS1Fnpx5PUYP%2BzZN1i7QfZog%2FgrSdjN3qzI9S7rPImM03rIzn3w%2Bop6etm6UkD3vEE4Yt7OtdT68fjRRa5eljvd4Rx66YRyPaERXVhZzZ%2Ff58cBSxttco%2BrA5xhjV4fNvJZBW1lvd%2BUMCaKxeE6PBWsF%2FZqMfQbuOSapDdS0APxvdJMiVG%2BxLvGn7bccjaIYUf4x6wBQ%2BuRR8%2FH2s47UnbRXwh4u5%2FN9OoX6W%2FoBTjndm6s2J2WvawgDuO6bNOWLaXDQptLbZc7elFy9TyVZh6RWn%2BbSA%2Ftj7ALaPnIz15Ocgw9ocPcZG%2Bnnppu%2B9t4S9eNWxereH7lH0W5WjnG0zc6tGxGt1%2FRpbaBW5fVYouRgsRxEbol1du7mbXL7tyvC86P0rBXlb3BD2TvPri9V3cl%2FQ%2BWCvEUuMEtLyuCuHcVnncp06sB4hMAEjo%2FAhLPTFmRTlfeyZyJKv4glkZ6GEDtcGVUwtjGTejd8Qo%3D&checksum=292468305540eeb49c2daccf45e1a5f23e23ab7633b1&frcectupt=true

    I've got two sets, put one on the top and one on the bottom. Just sorta run your eye down the joint making sure it looks nice and even. You can get a lot of tension from these. Good luck,

    Paul

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
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    9,542

    Default

    Usually, I oil the insides of the box before assembly, so that any squeeze-out is easy to remove. Then I put a small amount of wax on the outside of the ends, again so that any squeeze-out can be removed. I lay the sides out in order, outside up, and line them up with a straightedge.

    IMG_3072.jpg

    I then join them with masking tape. If you tension the masking tape slightly it will pull the corners together when you glue up.
    Flip the sides over so the inside is up, and position the top and bottom panels. If you wish, you can now do a dry test by folding the sides up around the top & bottom panels. If you're confident, you can now put glue on the joints. Then, fold the sides up and tape the last corner. Pull the tape tight and check all the corners.
    IMG_3075.jpg
    IMG_3077.jpg
    IMG_3076.jpg
    Flip the box on its top and measure the diagonals, which should be the same. I find it's easiest to put one end of the rule in an internal corner and measure to the opposite internal corner.

    IMG_3078.jpg


    If any adjustment is necessary it is usually so small that a slight push on the corners on the long diagonal will fix it. If more force is required, a clamp on the short ends, adjusted so that its slightly aligned with the long diagonal, will pull the box into square.
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  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default

    I actually tried the taping technique once before I stopped doing boxes years ago and had decent results, but I'd forgotten it. Might have to cut myself some timber today and give it a try...

    Thanks to those who suggested it!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    65
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    Default

    Just a question about the fitting of the lid insert Alex. Do you cut all the grooves and tenons to be an exact fit (height wise) or is there some clearance on any of them? I ask because I have just been making a similar insert where I made everything fit exactly and was wondering if I was over complicating it or is that the way it is meant to be?

    Help - gluing up mitre boxes-img_3063-2-jpg

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    I have a glue-up jig made from 19mm MDF. Tape up the box, pop it in the jig, four parallel clamps and a guaranteed square result every time:

    0169C4A0-D22D-45D4-A246-6694F858F452.jpeg

    DA839B88-8F95-4150-895B-E9A3126EB83F.jpeg

    Best regards,

    Brian

  13. #12
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    Oct 2008
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    Default

    Does this suit all size boxes or only the larger ones?

  14. #13
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    Default

    +1 for masking tape.

    Did it all the time at work on all size projects, some jobs took 2 or 3 people just to fold

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
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    Default

    Hi Dallas,

    i’ve used it for boxes as small as 150 x 75 x 60 although for small boxes I generally use masking tape and just check it across the diagonals.

    As for tape, I think I read that boxmaker Doug Stowe uses packing tape (the reinforced type).

    Brian

  16. #15
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    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Should also add that stretching the masking tape a bit as you're putting it on adds tension that will help keep everything nice and tight as the glue dries.

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