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Thread: Help with mitre-key saw
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22nd February 2020, 08:58 PM #1
Help with mitre-key saw
Got a bee in my bonnet about doing slim mitre-keys like the gurus on here and made the pictured jig 'cos I can't saw straight to save myself! Worked beautifully and the keys look great, but at just 0.75mm thick, they're not really adding much strength to the mitres. My problem is that I can't find a saw with a kerf of between 1 and 1.5mm to beef them up a little - not much to choose from out here in the sticks and very few websites list the kerf size. I don't really care whether it's a Japanese or english style saw as long as it cuts cleanly. Anyone know of such a beast I can buy online????
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23rd February 2020, 04:22 PM #2
This one gives you a whisker over 1mm kerf but depends on how much you want to pay.
Very smart jig by the way.Dallas
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23rd February 2020, 08:29 PM #3
I am not an expert or so, but if I understand correct then your jig is keeping the saw blade vertical and on track.
My first thought was to do your first cut and then move the jig by just 1 mm and do a second cut. Although I guess the saw will then wonder off into the first cut, but maybe worth a try.
You could get an old panel saw. Mine have blades around one mm thick and with the set do cut more than a mm kerf. For your purpose you can butcher one, shorten the blade and cut new teeth with a higher tpi ( e.g. similar to a tenon saw) and choose a set which will give you a kerf thickness you want. Your jig will keep it on track I suppose.
Just some thoughts......
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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23rd February 2020, 09:31 PM #4
Not that I’m a fan of the big green shed,
Or even Irwin tools,
For the price this may get what you want.
Irwin 185mm Dovetail Pull Saw | Bunnings Warehouse
It’s “claiming a thin kerf cut”
Cheers Matt
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23rd February 2020, 09:35 PM #5
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23rd February 2020, 11:13 PM #6
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23rd February 2020, 11:16 PM #7
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23rd February 2020, 11:17 PM #8
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23rd February 2020, 11:23 PM #9
Not only are they strong enough but they also look right - if you go to 1.5mm they will make the box look clunky. The boxes in the photo look great as they are.
Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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24th February 2020, 02:06 PM #10
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24th February 2020, 08:43 PM #11
TIT
I think Cklett was close to the mark.
I would find an old panel saw (24" or less), which should be around .032" thick. Then set the teeth heavily until the kerf comes to 1mm (.040"). Because you are using a guide box you don't need a back saw, although you could do the same with a back saw and a heavy set. You can't use the throwaway hardpoint saws because the teeth will break off if you try to set them or they won't bend at all.
As hand saws get longer they tend to have thicker plates. The only problem I see is that your kerf may be a little coarse with a heavily set, narrow plate saw. A 28" hand saw will have a plate about .039" thick, but a little unweildy for your purpose. If you found such a saw, you could always cut the length down. (angle grinder with a thin cutting disc.)
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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25th February 2020, 07:09 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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i have a weird idea so i'll see if i can draw it in paint.
so build/modify your jig so it has 2 slots:
slot #1 is what you have now a guide the thickness of your saw blade (lets say its 1mm)
slot #2 is say double your saw blade kerf (2mm)
do your first cut in slot #1
then slide the cut back to slot #2 and insert a shim (the blue color) that is 1mm thick down into it and press that hard up against the jig edge
now do your 2nd cut with the shim in place to essentially double your mitre key thickness with out it wandering into the first cut.
jig.jpg
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25th February 2020, 08:55 AM #13
Vern, you could try a back / tenon saw. That should give you a bit more kerf width.
Mobyturns
In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever
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