Thread: Hi All-Barry from Chicago new guy- New to woodworking need HELP gluing 3/8" mitre

welcome Barry.

Would suggest you "show us your working" by adding a few pictures so you can get an idea of your progress and all your challenges. Oh, and I'd suggest you use metric (my brain doesn't work in inches ) but that's just me !

I agree with Poundy that a couple of photos would be handy as your description the way I interpret it is that you want to glue the centre panel inside the mitred frame, which doesn't allow anything for wood movement. Maybe I am wrong.
To insert a single image which might be the easiest at this stage, put your curser where you want the image to go and just click the icon that is 3rd from the right above your text when replying (looks like a picture frame with a tree inside) and follow the instructions.

Cheers,

Welcome, also looking forward to some pictures.

I think maybe Barry can't post pictures until he's put a few posts up - mods may confirm. But yes, looking forward to seeing some pics.

Originally Posted by bmenary

I mostly seek help to make the mitered corned stronger then just butt gluing.

Welcome Barry,

Slip feathers is what your after. cut a slot through the corner at 45deg to the work piece (not too deep to cut through the walls into the cavity) and glue in (long grain across the join) a piece of timer exactly the same size as the slot.

if you have a look at the "box proportions" thread, you can see some in the pics there.

Box proportions

HI Everyone, so sorry I have not replied. I am traveling. I will reply soon. Thanks everyone for your messages. Barry

cant figure out how to edit my original thread so I will post some pics here. Thanks everyone!!

Looks like a very nice box coming along there. All the glue only options are about increasing surface area for the glue to stick. Generally mitre joints are considered difficult because they are end grain - which is harder to stick - and the angle make them less stable any way.

Above you have suggestions of feathers or I would call them exposed splines. Best way to do this is a jig for either table saw or router or even hand saw, The jig holds the box point of the corner directly down and then the blade - whatever you choose cuts across the mitre. This is done after the box is glued up. The spline is then glued in and the excess is either cut or sanded off.

You can also do hidden splines in which you route a groove into the diagonal on either side of the joint that is hidden when the joint is assembled. A spline is then glued into place across the joint as the joint is assembled. Using a drill, you can do similar with dowels.

Exposed dowels are achieved by drilling across the joint after assembly, gluing in the dowel and then cutting or sanding off. The master craftsmen up here can probably do this while assembling the joint but I can't.

Another option is to consider epoxy - never tried this. Have done most if not all of the above over the years.

Cheers Paul

Good explanation, Paul. Using epoxy on mitres doesn't guarantee any extra strength, in my experience. I'd still use one of the other strengthening methods you've suggested.

Welcome.

Welcome to the forum.

Regards
Keith

Barry, before you glue up that lid panel and re-inforce it with splines, have a look at TTIT's thread "A couple for the club", post 12, about how he makes a lid.

It seems your plan is to encase the solid bubinga in a frame of purple heart without allowing for any wood movement (of the bubinga).

Apologies if I've mis-interpreted your original post.

Sorry, but I'm going to be the wet blanket here.

TYhe box as you have constructed it will most likely blow itself apart.



As I see the grain direction, the box's grain direction is arranged in a way that the box will get longer and wider with changes in humidity, while staying the same height. And the insert lid will grow to push the ends off the purpleheart mitre. At worst the box will grow enough that the bottom [where the grain is arranged length wise] will fall out.

It's possibly too late to save this box. Chalk the result up to a "learning experience"

If you can, remake the box so that
1. the grain wraps around the box.
2. rather than a dowel max use mitre keys to reinforce the miter corners. Keys are basically strips of veneer inserted (and glued) into kerfs cut with a hand saw. You will be surprised how few keys you need. I have a mitered draw in a tool box held together with just two veneer keys in each corner. For your box, I suggest two keys in each corner sized to a similar thickness to those I suggest for the lid panel.
3. Design wise, you could reinforce the lid's miters with keys sized to 1/3 the finished thickness of the frame.
4. Please allow for wood movement by
a. arranging the grain in the lid so that it runs length wise, and
b. constructing the lid as a frame and panel.


How to build a frame and panel lid Treasured Wood Jewelry Box | Popular Woodworking Magazine
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