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1st September 2020, 10:56 PM #1New Member
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Hi All-Barry from Chicago new guy- New to woodworking need HELP gluing 3/8" mitre
Hi All,
So this is my attempt at my first box. Coming along, many mistakes, much to learn. It's bubinga and Purpleheart, through dowels made with a dowelmax (love that jig) I am at the point of gluing the top which will be hinged.
Have 3/8" frame with 1/2" deep bubinga center which will stick up 1/8...be flush underneath. I figure there is enough depth contact to glue the center well, (I hope) any suggestions on gluing the cenet block is appreciated.
I mostly seek help to make the mitered corned stronger then just butt gluing.
Really need some suggestions, appreciate you all. Look forward....I hope and pray your fires are better and the animals and people that survived are ok!
Barry - Wilmette, IL
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1st September 2020 10:56 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd September 2020, 09:37 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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welcome Barry.
Would suggest you "show us your working" by adding a few pictures so you can get an idea of your progress and all your challenges. Oh, and I'd suggest you use metric (my brain doesn't work in inches ) but that's just me !
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2nd September 2020, 10:16 AM #3
I agree with Poundy that a couple of photos would be handy as your description the way I interpret it is that you want to glue the centre panel inside the mitred frame, which doesn't allow anything for wood movement. Maybe I am wrong.
To insert a single image which might be the easiest at this stage, put your curser where you want the image to go and just click the icon that is 3rd from the right above your text when replying (looks like a picture frame with a tree inside) and follow the instructions.
Cheers,Dallas
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2nd September 2020, 11:12 AM #4
Welcome, also looking forward to some pictures.
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2nd September 2020, 06:23 PM #5
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4th September 2020, 03:50 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Welcome Barry,
Slip feathers is what your after. cut a slot through the corner at 45deg to the work piece (not too deep to cut through the walls into the cavity) and glue in (long grain across the join) a piece of timer exactly the same size as the slot.
if you have a look at the "box proportions" thread, you can see some in the pics there.
Box proportions
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11th September 2020, 01:36 AM #7New Member
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HI Everyone, so sorry I have not replied. I am traveling. I will reply soon. Thanks everyone for your messages. Barry
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12th September 2020, 09:57 PM #8New Member
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photos
cant figure out how to edit my original thread so I will post some pics here. Thanks everyone!!
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17th September 2020, 05:59 PM #9Intermediate Member
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alternatives
Looks like a very nice box coming along there. All the glue only options are about increasing surface area for the glue to stick. Generally mitre joints are considered difficult because they are end grain - which is harder to stick - and the angle make them less stable any way.
Above you have suggestions of feathers or I would call them exposed splines. Best way to do this is a jig for either table saw or router or even hand saw, The jig holds the box point of the corner directly down and then the blade - whatever you choose cuts across the mitre. This is done after the box is glued up. The spline is then glued in and the excess is either cut or sanded off.
You can also do hidden splines in which you route a groove into the diagonal on either side of the joint that is hidden when the joint is assembled. A spline is then glued into place across the joint as the joint is assembled. Using a drill, you can do similar with dowels.
Exposed dowels are achieved by drilling across the joint after assembly, gluing in the dowel and then cutting or sanding off. The master craftsmen up here can probably do this while assembling the joint but I can't.
Another option is to consider epoxy - never tried this. Have done most if not all of the above over the years.
Cheers Paul
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17th September 2020, 06:46 PM #10
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17th September 2020, 07:06 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Welcome.
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17th September 2020, 08:40 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Welcome to the forum.
Regards
Keith
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18th September 2020, 01:14 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Barry, before you glue up that lid panel and re-inforce it with splines, have a look at TTIT's thread "A couple for the club", post 12, about how he makes a lid.
It seems your plan is to encase the solid bubinga in a frame of purple heart without allowing for any wood movement (of the bubinga).
Apologies if I've mis-interpreted your original post.
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18th September 2020, 05:40 PM #14
Sorry, but I'm going to be the wet blanket here.
TYhe box as you have constructed it will most likely blow itself apart.
As I see the grain direction, the box's grain direction is arranged in a way that the box will get longer and wider with changes in humidity, while staying the same height. And the insert lid will grow to push the ends off the purpleheart mitre. At worst the box will grow enough that the bottom [where the grain is arranged length wise] will fall out.
It's possibly too late to save this box. Chalk the result up to a "learning experience"
If you can, remake the box so that
1. the grain wraps around the box.
2. rather than a dowel max use mitre keys to reinforce the miter corners. Keys are basically strips of veneer inserted (and glued) into kerfs cut with a hand saw. You will be surprised how few keys you need. I have a mitered draw in a tool box held together with just two veneer keys in each corner. For your box, I suggest two keys in each corner sized to a similar thickness to those I suggest for the lid panel.
3. Design wise, you could reinforce the lid's miters with keys sized to 1/3 the finished thickness of the frame.
4. Please allow for wood movement by
a. arranging the grain in the lid so that it runs length wise, and
b. constructing the lid as a frame and panel.
How to build a frame and panel lid Treasured Wood Jewelry Box | Popular Woodworking Magazine
like this
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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