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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Glebe NSW
    Posts
    5

    Default Hinge screws for a thin box lid!?

    I'd appreciate some help please with ways to fix brass butt hinges to the lid of a box with a thin lid. I'm making a second box (380 x 295 x 115 mm) to fit my extra chisels and it gives me some practice with joinery. The box has a thin lid (11 mm, box sides are 122 mm thick) and I am concerned that the brass screws in the thin lid will penetrate the top of the lid. (This happened with my first chisel box when I raised a panel in that lid thus diminishing the lid thickness where the hinges sit in the lid - I accepted it and just filed back the ends of the screws). This box has a flat lid with soft wood but it's 290 mm wide. So, I don't think shorter screws (that won't penetrate) are the answer as it may not provide enough support for the lid thru the hinge. (I have some 25 mm Butt hinges in the photo the included screws are 12 mm but I think I need longer hinges too)
    What should I do? Use several hinges rather than just 2; Thicken the lid at the back over the hinge sites; Use different lid attachment - pin hinges with a lid flush with the top of the box; Something else?
    Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
    Adrian from Glebe.
    IMG_1877.HEIC.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,643

    Default

    11mm thick lid. 12mm long screws. I would grind 3mm off the tips of the screws and drill 9mm deep holes in the lid. The tip of the screw has bugger-all holding power anyway. If you drill a hole the same diameter as the screw shank they don't need to be pointy to screw into the hole.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,039

    Default

    What Jack said or fit a piano hinge, lots of small screws to do the job of a few bigger ones.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,746

    Default

    What Aldav said. A piano hinge is the way I would go.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Glebe NSW
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thank you for the suggestions. It shows me that I should have worked through the design before I started or at least before glueing up the box, rather than make it up as I go along trying to use material that's at hand. Maybe I should just stick to a lift off lid..... Thanks again

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    544

    Default learn from experience

    Quote Originally Posted by Gillina View Post
    Thank you for the suggestions. It shows me that I should have worked through the design before I started or at least before glueing up the box, rather than make it up as I go along trying to use material that's at hand. Maybe I should just stick to a lift off lid..... Thanks again


    I've learned a lot of woodworking by trial and error (ask me how I know!) and from YouTube. Making it up as one goes along is satisfying and working out problems as one goes is a wonderful way to learn.

    There is a great book called "Basic Box Making" by Doug Stowe. I can't find a free PDF version on the net but there are some YouTube videos of his techniques from the book. Search for Basic Boxmaking by Doug Stowe on the YouTube platform.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Welcome Creek QLD
    Age
    75
    Posts
    149

    Default

    Have you thought of using a wooden dowel hinge?
    Buck’s Bench Handcrafted With Passion

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,400

    Default

    You could try roughing the brass up on the hinge with sand paper and just glueing them into the lid with something like Poly glue.

    Or another way is glue the lid onto the box top and then saw it off around the red line. Plane it up and screw in hinges. That's a pretty common way of box making.
    It also prevents the lid from cupping . It prevents the expansion and contraction of the top so seal it well both sides to slow that down. That type of design normally requires specific spacing of the dovetails . 1, to give the cut off top section good joinery and 2, to allow a saw cut to be made and still get a pleasing dovetail lay out look. In the old days a rip saw would do the cut by hand but now days a table saw with a 3 mm , or less, kerf works fast.

    IMG_1877 aa.jpg

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Cudgen NSW
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Veneer inlay Australia has a wide range of brass slotted head countersink screws for sale contact Michael he will set you straight.

    if you go for the sawn-off system run a steel screw in 1st to tap the hole then when you insert the brass screw use a dab of superglue to make a tight fit.

    Cheers
    [/SIGPIC]Pigs a#@*.

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