Thread: Holiday Jewlery Box

Post 11

Here I set up a drum sander. Now I get to sand to the line as shown. In the last pic you can see the finished side board. This gentle curve will hopefully go well with drawer fronts and lid face that will have curves on them.

Tomorrow I get to cut the miters, cut the drawer fronts free and start on the lid and bottoms.

Looking good and thanks for all the photos! Can't wait to see the finished product!

Corey

Ok.....back at it

Post 12

Pic 1 To remove the face material on the front board I set up a dado blade to remove 5/8 material at a time. This cut will be later cleaned up on the router.

Pic 2 You can see in the diagram the XXXXX material that needs to be removed.

Pic 3 the following three pics show this material being cut away.

Post 13

Pic 1 All the dado’s have been made on this face board now. Cleaned up at the router table.

Pic 2 You can see in the following pics the miters cut on all the boards.

****:mad: :mad: During this process I found out my TS blade was dull as you know what!!. Got on the phone and dumped 110 for a new one deliver next day. Back in business and the cuts are like butter. Miter cuts on a TS put strain on the blade and you have to be careful. Once I get my compound miter box setup, I'll do all my next projects there.

Pic 3

Pic 4

Pic 5 This pic shows the faint vertical line where the cut will be made later to remove the lid (after the box has been glued up. You notice that the material is thicker on the right portion, that’s because I’m going to create a small curve on the face of the lid (drawers as well).

Post 14

Time to remove the drawers and bottom skirt boards from the front board. Gotta do it now, because these cuts can’t be made after glue up. These were ripped to width at the table saw. Notice how I cut on a transition line that I preplanned so that what I’m left with is a nice crisp clean board.


Pic 1 The kerf to the right on this drawing will be the first cut I make which will yield the upper face on the front board.

Post 15

These pics show the pcs. of the front board after they have all been separated. The front face upper portion (Lid portion to be removed later), the two drawer faces and the bottom skirt board. Notice that this bottom skirt board does not yet have the curve on the bottom like the sides and back do, nor does it have the dado to receive the bottom board. Soon to come.

Post 16

Here I cut the curve on the bottom, since I now have a board to the exact dimension in width. I also cut the dado on the router table with a ¼ inch straight bit.

Post 17

The drawers need some way of pulling them out, so here I mortise in for a drawer pull to be glued in near the end of this project. The mortise is ¼ inch x 5/16 inch deep x 3 inches in width. This set up is at the router table and is centered on the drawer. I also mark the board to help in setup.

Post 18

Further setup on the router table requires putting some stops in place. Pic 4 shows the final cut and pic 5 shows a boo boo which I’ll repair later. I also oriented the boards so that if the board slipped off of the fence, the boo boo would be at the bottom of the drawer pull and the subsequent repair would be under the pull and never noticed.

Post 19

Here the box is somewhat put together so that I can take measurements for the bottoms (which you see here I’ve already cut from ¼ inch Birch plywood. I measure to exact cut then subtract 1/16 inch for allowance of glue and a little wiggle room to square up the box.

You can see a few other boo boo's in the miter cut. I was planning on putting a spline in there (mortised in), but when I cut the other ones, my darn setup moved. Well,...I glued in some more purpleheart and once the lid is cut free I hope that they will not be noticeable.

My intention now to re-inforce the miter joints will be the use of miter keys made from Holly. they'll work nice.

Post 20

Now for the lid. This ones a little tricky as you’ll see as I progress through it. I’m going to laminate materials together so that this lid comes out flush with sides. It will have English Sycamore for the main part on the lid with an inlay banding of Holly (3/8 inch wide) and purple heart (1/8 inch wide). I’ll glue all this up tomorrow and also decide how I put the 1/8 inch purple heart in. I can either do it on the lid now and glue the whole box together or I can wait and route out a 1/8 inch dado for the purple heart after the glue up, which may hide a host of errors if they crop up. Don’t know yet, tomorrows another day.

Great description, this is headed for best of the best at this rate!

Tomorrow's Plans.....

Glue up the lid, lay the banding, rabbit the lid so that it will fit in the dado already cut in the other boards.

Mill a 1/8 inch dado in the drawer fronts to accept a 1/8 inch purple heart inlay across the front. Glue it in.

Sand the you know what out of all the parts insides to 600 grit.

Glue up the box. Pray, Pray, Pray (before and after)

Route a cove on the drawer faces (see previous drawings).

Make the drawer pulls that somewhat resemble your standard sea shell (clam).

Wow, that is just awesome. This is going to be a beautiful box! Getting close to the end it looks like!

Corey