Thread: Home for my knife

Outstanding. I think we all underestimate how hard a good miter joint is to cut by hand. I would be interested in some pictures of your 45° shouting board.

Pulling a box together with four mitres, is no easy feat.
You should’ve well pleased with that.

Cheers Matt

Using hand tools for projects is very satisfying. Traditionally I have relied on machines but now really enjoying the hand tools for the finishing touches.
What you have achieved looks very well done. Hopefully you will make some more boxes for us to see.

Frankly spoken not all miters at the glued box are 90 degrees. Some are more than 90, some are less, a little, but this mistake exist. I'm glueing these boxes with Bessey strap clamp (Strap clamp 12 ft), like this.
All parts have equal length and thickness and 45 degrees after miter shooting board. I check it. But after glueing I see some mistake described above. Probably I'm applying a lot of force on the clamp. The clamp is always places in the middlle of the wall's height.
Probably something else.
I'll think and I hope the solution exist.
By the way, below photos of clamps for glueing boards and photos of miter shooting board. It was made after blog 'Blue Spruce Woodshop' (Blue Spruce Woodshop: How I Made My Miter Shooting Board) from ply and pine.M_Box_1.JPGM_Box_0.JPGM_Box_2.JPGM_Box_3.JPGM_Box_4.JPG

Thanks for the photos and explanation.

If you use masking tape to clamp the box, you can then measure diagonals, and if needed put a clamp on the long diagonal and “squash” it to square. It always amazes me how a tiny bit of clamping pressure is often enough to bring it square.

I have started using the masking tape to hold all the corner together and it works well especially for checking if your mitres are accurate before applying glue. You can't use a clamp to pull it all together if they're not right as that will just put strain on the glued mitres once the clamp is released. I have found it makes me work more accurately.

So new one box. Now this is box for my wife. For jewellery she wear every day and for her Victorynox's knifes. She likes these Swiss small knifes and put them in her woman's clutchesP4030015.JPGP4030018.JPGP4030020.JPGP4030027.JPGP4030030.JPG

Well done with your miters, I also have made the same shooting board, and is easy to make fine adjustments.

Regards
Keith

Nice job again on the second box. I'm sure your wife is pleased.
I must make a 45° shooting board one day as currently I fit an adaptor to my 90° board which has to be set up precisely each time. Be nice to just pull one out and be able to use it straight off.

After I have posted some my box in the local FB knifemakers group one of the knifemakers ordered me boxes for his knives. Againe simple boxes but with knifemaker's logo on the lid. Logo was fretsawed with hand fretsaw. Of course I have an electrical scrollsaw, but I'm making lids thick 6 mm, so fretsaw is a better choice. Againe pine, and 2 layers of black wood oil.005_1.jpg006_1.jpg012_1.jpg016_1.jpg

A good sharp plane & shooting board does wonders when doing miters, nice neat work,

6mm with a scroll saw should be a piece of cake only when you want to cut 19mm or above do you need to consider using a fretsaw.

mature one , I'm not very familiar with electric scrollsaw. Even more, the sound from working electrical scrollsaw just resemble me the sound from machinegun, so I prefer use the hand fretsaw - no sound and less of dust.

RGP - you are right. I use homemade shooting board. It is not very-very accurate but I use the shims from chocolade paper. As regarding the plane - this is Veritas Bevel Up small plane and despite all boxes were made from pine, the main component of accurate miters is fresh resharpened blade every time I use plane to make miters. Resharpened blade for a new box makes clean miters.

Nice work on the logos. I'm not familiar with the black wood oil. Is it a stain or just a dark oil?