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Thread: Installing hinges
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25th April 2014, 05:59 PM #1Senior Member
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Installing hinges
Hi all,
Just managed to wreck one of the first boxes I was happy with in putting on the hinges. Was a dovetailed Blackwood box with a camphor laurel insert for the lid.
That brings me to a couple of questions in regards to hinges.
I used a cheaper version from carols of the smart hinge. Problem I had was when screwing in the tiny supplied screws, they cross thread the top and then cannot undo the screw. I even pre drilled holes for the screws and about three quarters in, the screw stops , and the head strips.
Second question, when routing for the hinge I essentially set a stop and routed two, then re positioned the fence so I could do the far sides.
I was just watching a YouTube video- Andrew crawfords "Smart hinge, the movie", where the only thing he moves is the stop. He does two passes with the stop on the left of the cutter, routing right to left, re positions the stop to the right of the cutter, then does the second two passes.
When learning to route I was taught quite simply in a table only to ever to route r to l. So how did he do the other side left to right?
Cheers
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25th April 2014, 06:48 PM #2
He used very shallow cuts on each pass and was very careful to have a good grip on the timber. This process can be called "climbing up" and is used on the Leigh DT Jig to start the cutting of half blind dovetails to help avoid splintering. So as long as you are careful and don't expect to be able to remove lots of stock at each pass, you should be OK.
With regard to the screws breaking or losing their head, buy yourself some good 4g brass hinges from Master's. They cost about $5.00/50 or so and work beautifully. Use a 3/16 drill bit (I think).
Regards,
Rob
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25th April 2014, 07:06 PM #3
Hi,
I have not seen the video, so don't know how he did it, but you can start against the stop and plunge the bit in and rout strait out the other end on those cuts. With the screws get your self some strong steel screws and fit the hinges with those and when you have finished the box last thing change the screws one at a time for the pretty supplied ones.
Good luck, have fun.Hugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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26th April 2014, 10:20 AM #4
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26th April 2014, 04:44 PM #5
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26th April 2014, 05:02 PM #6
The only problem with soap is that it can be caustic and lend to corrosion.
Dave . . .
I believe in Murphy's Law of Pre-requisites - Whatever I want to do, I have to do something else first.
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26th April 2014, 05:20 PM #7
Vaseline or "happy fat" works well too.
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26th April 2014, 05:32 PM #8
Really? I wasn't aware of that, and thought it was about neutral. I've been using it on my plane soles, handsaws and screws. Also on my lathe toolrest, because it slides better than wax. It was a tip from my high school woodwork teacher.
I've never had a problem with corrosion, though, soit can't be too caustic.
Edit: Wiki tells me that soap has a typical pH of 9 to 10, so it appears that my ex-teacher needs a kick in the bum. 'Dove' is pH 7, but I don't use that.
Never too old to learn. Candle wax (or Dove) from now on........ Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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26th April 2014, 11:23 PM #9
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27th April 2014, 07:23 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
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Thanks
Thanks everyone for you replys,
I tried some vaseline as I had some readily available.
I love how helpful everyone is here, and thank you so much for your help. Its also great to see even a basic question like this helping out some old hands.
Cheers
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27th April 2014, 07:30 PM #11
And I learned something too - don't use soap.
... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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27th April 2014, 10:16 PM #12
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