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Thread: a simple box

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default a simple box

    This is my first try at a box with through dovetails with miters at the top edges. I will do a fitted lid for it out of the same material later today.

    The wood is a type of ceder that grows in Taiwan. Smells good. I'm thinking about leaving it raw since the last two times I put lacquer on this ceder I was not happy with the result. The finish seemed plastic like and raw ceder does age gracefully.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Good looking box buddy. I like the dovetails too.

    Be careful because that black and white thing loves to scratch cedar and make a mess of it.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  4. #3
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    Default

    Love the dovetails. Were they hand cut or jig? Also, the timber grain is great. Can I suggest an oil finish, rubbed back to a high sheen. I sometimes give a coat or two of shellac followed by sanding through quite fine grades (eg 2-2500), followed by oil.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Nice work, I am also interested in the method you used to cut the dovetail joints.

    I agree an oil finish would be suitable but you may want to test on some scrap firstly.
    - Wood Borer

  6. #5
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    Default

    I cut them freehand. First I scribe a line the thickness of the board. Next I eyeball how far I want the dovetail from the edge then take a deep breath and cut the first one. Then I eyeball how far that one is from the edge and try to get the one on the opposite edge about the same distance, take another deep breath and cut. Then I use that spring loaded thingamajig with two points and a rod to adjust how far they are from each other (what is that thing called?) and adjust it till I can walk it from the edge of one outside dovetail to the other with two turns. Once that adjustment is right, I walk it with a little pressure to make small dots where my middle dovetails will go. Once again I eyeball the angles, take a deep breath, and go for it

    Once I have cut the first board, I lay that on the table put another board in my vice, use that first one for reference and duplicate it. Once I have cut the sockets on what will be the front and back of my box, I chop out the inside bits.

    Next I do something I haven't seen on any of the dovetails tutorials I've read, though it is so simple and works so well for me I'm surpised I haven't seen it before: I take the board I'm going to scribe onto and grip it in my vice with the end of it just flush with the top of my vice jaws and the table top. Then I lay the board with the sockets flat on the table with the sockets on that board. I align the two, clamp it with a quick grip, take another deep breath and scribe it. I have seen so many pictures of people holding one board on end free hand while they scribe, or using fancy miter clamps to hold them. My way is quick, easy, and holds the boards in position rock solid.

    Any ways the once those are scribed I use a sliding t-square set at 45degrees to mark the miter on the edge. Take a deep breath, cut, then chop.

    That's how I do my dovetails. How do the rest of you do them? By hand or with a jig? Layout every line first,or freehand? How do you hold the boards when scribing? Do you do your sockets first or pins first?

  7. #6
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    Default Oil Finish

    Quote Originally Posted by KRH
    Can I suggest an oil finish, rubbed back to a high sheen. I sometimes give a coat or two of shellac followed by sanding through quite fine grades (eg 2-2500), followed by oil.
    I'd like to try an oil finish, though I have not seen it sold locally. I'll have to ask. It can take a bit of work to find things sometimes since all the labels are in Chinese and I can't read Chinese.

    It's not easy being illiterate.

    Cheers,

    David L.

    Taiwan.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by labolle
    that spring loaded thingamajig with two points and a rod to adjust how far they are from each other (what is that thing called?)
    I believe you're referring to a pair of dividers, or calipers (sometimes also called a compass):


    Well done for having the intestinal fortitude to do freehand dovetail layout. I do a similar thing with the dividers before I do any cuts, I walk them in from each edge until the tail/pin width are right, then apply pressure to make pin-marks. A square followed by an angled-square will give me evenly spaced dovetails. I think I'll use your technique next time.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  9. #8
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    Default Yes! The dividers on the left is like the one I use.

    Great pic. Thanks.

  10. #9
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    Labolle,

    This is how I make my dovetails.

    Thankyou for your ideas.

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=15265
    - Wood Borer

  11. #10
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    Default I was reading that thread as you posted! LOL

    THat is a great picture tutorial. A lot of time and thought went into preparing the step-by-step photos then posting them all. I found the thread under best-of-the-best and was probly reading it as you posted your link to it.

    I'm tempted to do a photo spread of my next box, but wouldn't want to bore you all seeing as how it has been done before.

  12. #11
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    Default

    Nice box. Seems a shame to leave it raw, as the right finish will bring it up a treat. Have a chat with the good folk in the finishing forum about what to use.
    Chris
    ========================================

    Life isn't always fair

    ....................but it's better than the alternative.

  13. #12
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    Default Finishing Forum?

    Great idea. I didn't realize there was a finishing forum.

    Thanks.

  14. #13
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    Default

    nice box !!!

  15. #14
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    Default

    Hats off to you Labolle! Hand cut mitered top edges with dovetails looks very nice.

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