Thread: Jewelery box

The box is still progressing, I did an overall sanding with 80 grit whilst the project was still in one piece and then commenced the process of removing the lid with a Japanese type saw, and cleaned up with a block plane as per pictures.

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Some problems getting a good line of lid to carcass, my hands are not so steady these days so I must have wandered a bit, however I am satisfied with the outcome.

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Getting prepared for the drawer front.

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And going to look for some hinges Friday.

Progressing well.

The drawer front was cut to size on the tablesaw and then put on the router table to round over its edges. Titebond and also dabs of superglue are used to attach the front to the drawer carcass, the stripes are also aligned to match. (superglue is added to get an immediate grab to avoid any slippage whilst piece is awaiting a set plus some masking tape instead of clamps)

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Front drawer now fitted.

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So the next step is hinging of the lid, I have obtained a reasonable quality butt hinge in brass from a local old fashioned hardware shop (very few left) and I also have a length of piano hinge.

In a quandary, I would like to fit the piano hinge to the rear outside (because that's easy, just clamp the lid and box together and slap on the piano hinge to the outside faces), but I will read up again how to fit internal hinges and perhaps I will get a good line up this time after many years of trying.

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any links or advice how you fit but hinges are welcome.

Originally Posted by jow104

Progressing well.

The drawer front was cut to size on the tablesaw and then put on the router table to round over its edges. Titebond and also dabs of superglue are used to attach the front to the drawer carcass, the stripes are also aligned to match. (superglue is added to get an immediate grab to avoid any slippage whilst piece is awaiting a set plus some masking tape instead of clamps)

35w.jpg



Front drawer now fitted.

36w.jpg


So the next step is hinging of the lid, I have obtained a reasonable quality butt hinge in brass from a local old fashioned hardware shop (very few left) and I also have a length of piano hinge.

In a quandary, I would like to fit the piano hinge to the rear outside (because that's easy, just clamp the lid and box together and slap on the piano hinge to the outside faces), but I will read up again how to fit internal hinges and perhaps I will get a good line up this time after many years of trying.

37w.jpg


any links or advice how you fit but hinges are welcome.

John, from memory Alex Springall wrote a pdf on making a basic box and uploaded it to a thread here. You know most of it, but it has a very good section toward the end on marking out for and fitting butt hinges. Perhaps you could ask him to email you a copy. I can't for the life of me remember which thread I saw it in.

Otherwise, the 'Smart' hinges, (sometimes called side-rail hinges, I noticed), like the ones I used on my recent storage box are very easy to fit, using the router table, (even for me ). They mount on the side rails, rather than both on the back rail. They come in 8mm wide and 6mm wide. A lot of suppliers carry them. I have to get some more for my current box, probably 8mm this time.

Here's a link to the instructions: smartHinge instructions | Box Hinges UK

And a review on this site, (by Alex): https://www.woodworkforums.com/f87/sm...review-145919/

Hinge setting instructions sent.

The instructions are in Box Bits.

Originally Posted by AlexS

Hinge setting instructions sent.

The instructions are in Box Bits.

I thought so too, but not for ordinary butt hinges, only for all the fancy ones and wooden ones. John has already checked it out as he posted there about not being able to open a post.
Regards

My mistake. I've sent John the notes from a course I ran, on setting butt hinges.

Thanks all, I will take the plunge and put in those butt hinges. (got tied up yesterday, hit by a credit charge fraud which could have come via ebay/paypal, ordering those hinges, nothing serious, the cc company picked up the fraudulent activity, I suspect a fixed charity charge was added to the bill for the Syrian conflict where things could have happened)

btw yesterday I commenced mark 2, and extra stripe to make the box a little deeper.

Also thinking of using 3 ply in the lid the next time plus a veneer. Your comments appreciated using 3 ply ?

Originally Posted by jow104

Also thinking of using 3 ply in the lid the next time plus a veneer. Your comments appreciated using 3 ply ?

For my vote, I see nothing wrong with it - plywood's a nice stable substrate and veneering is the way to preserve supplies of the nicer looking timbers. Can get some good patterns, too, with book-matched pieces.
I got my hands on some lovely African Wenge at the Canberra show - it'll become veneer, probably six box-tops.

Well those butt hinges did not work for me again even reading all those useful instructions sent me by members. I tried every which way to get the lid to sit square and nicely on the carcass. I even tried this;

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So I reverted to this.

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The lid fits OK but I need to get some more screws that fit.

BTW the butt hinges (I got eight sets from EDavies Securit brand but the screws are no longer brass and they came with Phillips type brass plated screws which do not fit the hinge very well) so off to our local screw shop to get some before they no longer stock traditional brass screws and use this metric Phillips stuff.

Knobs are hopefully also coming today from forum member Dave62m so I should post again shortly.

Still working on this one.

Dave62m has kindly made me some drawer knobs as per picture below and he told me he enjoyed making them and is happy to make more again in the future, so you never know I might be lucky and get more great grand children and need more in the future.

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Here is an interesting picture a hinged cupboard door (but could be a box if laid on its back) but look how the hinge is fitted (and it works perfectly) it is sunken in to double the thickness of the hinge and on the other surface it lies flush.

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So what are the downside of doing this to my boxes?

Knobs from Dave m62 on back screwed with a dab of adhesive.

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Back to the hinge, close up of present situation.

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Not happy with appearance at back of box so I am attempting to disguise the hinging and put a wood moulding on top of both flaps. Made a moulding on the router table and then thinned it down on the bandsaw.

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going to use epoxy and glue the mouldings over the hinge and hope my problems will be solved.

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I like the knobs.

Interesting approach to the hinge. I'll be interested to see how it turns out.

Eureka, eureka, eureka.

I have finally satisfied myself and got that hinge fitted reasonably well.

Thanks all above with those other solutions which did all have merits and are not discarded but may well be put into practice to later boxes.

So pictures below might convey my solution, even the box lid stays upright and does not fall over the 90 degree angle. I might even decorate with some round head brass screws to ensure the additional timber remains in position.(epoxy glue used (£1 tubes from the pound shop)

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Definitely a 'Eureka' moment. Looking good John.