Thread: Jewelery box

Hi John, watching with interest.

A bit more preparation of timber done, these strips have been reduced to 18mm wide and 9mm thick.

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The London plane, lacewood, was very difficult to work with on this occasion, putting the batten through the bandsaw and I got drift off the fence on two of the three pieces. (there was no drift cutting the sapele at the same fence setting)
The drift was so great that even forcefully holding the batten against the fence the drift would not return to its line. To me that means there is a grain variation that steers the cut and not some misalignment of the tracking because all other four cuts went perfectly, two would not.
What are your views?

I agree with your assessment. Sometimes timber has a mind of its own, and just does not behave predictably. Looking forward to watching this project unfold.

cheers,

ajw

Originally Posted by ajw

I agree with your assessment. Sometimes timber has a mind of its own, and just does not behave predictably. Looking forward to watching this project unfold.

cheers,

ajw

More machine work done on strips, lengths prepared ready to mitred ends.

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Upto the present time I have not made a working plan for this box, just sketches. However things are coming to a head I need to start working out lids and bases also drawer sliders, this has slowed me down the past two days but crunch time is nigh.

I would like a decorative top, (300x 200 around 6mm thick) anyone got a piece spare for sale?

Delay due to design changes, box dimensions reduced to 9" x6" x 4" decided the lady would need a very wealthy husband to fill the original size.

So recut the strips above, having to put back an old 60T tablesaw blade, my last new blade had gone blunt and was chipping and bearding.
Old blade a better quality and making better cuts.

Made a veneer lid, used titebond 3 diluted and had no problems at all.

ply base for lid

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cut veneers, I think they are lacewood , London plane

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Glued up very nicely.

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Some more progress yesterday, or disaster depends which way I look at it.

In the past when making items with a stripe pattern I usually glue the pieces making up a board, somehow this did not happen on this occasion and when I came to the glueing stage of making the carcass I suddenly found I had got all those pieces, 24 of them and they had to be fitted and placed accurately. It felt just like an exam paper.

Four of the pieces I had put on the router table and rebated to both sides so that when box lid was cut apart it would only need a hand saw to separate. Never done this method before but it has potential to make a neat and easy line for lid to meet box?

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Anyway bit the bullet and finished the top section of the project glued piece by piece with titebond 3 which had started to go off and worked like an impact glue

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The lower section which has got to house the drawer unit is the next problem and that is in many pieces as well. Good job I already have white hair.

Just as long as you don't start pulling it out.

Have fun.
Regards

Originally Posted by jow104

Four of the pieces I had put on the router table and rebated to both sides so that when box lid was cut apart it would only need a hand saw to separate. Never done this method before but it has potential to make a neat and easy line for lid to meet box?

I like this idea John. I use the router to separate the lid, leaving just enough meat to cut through easily with a hobby knife, but it makes sense to do most of the cut before assembly rather than afterwards.

I am having problems again, I seem to be lurching from b ups. to b ups.

The lower section of this box is going to be a drawer unit and I obviously had not forward planned this section assuming at the time that drawers are easy and there should be a way through.

The box has a compartment at top and a drawer below, I decided the drawer front would be false and would cover the box frame.

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I got out my jig I use for making mortises using a hand held router, and making all the stops etc. I spent an hour setting up



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I did cut a good section out of the frame for the drawer aperture but then decided there was an imperfection I could clean up with a second pass of the router, that's when disaster struck and broke up the workpiece.

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I was not feeling too happy after spending so much time on that operation however I added the final two layers of the carcass and will find a solution hopefully to the drawer aperture today.

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Progress was good yesterday, after the attempt at shaping the drawer aperture at the top rail mentioned above, this time a new approach to creating the top and bottom rails was made. A hand start at shaping the first 18 mm cutout was commenced as per picture using hand saw and chisel.

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Then taken to the band saw and completed the cut to both rails, (top and bottom).

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Glued in position as per photo and other portions complete with rebates for base.

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The box in my opinion will need extra support strength added to this area because of likely heavy use in future so arrows indicate where back up strips will be added.

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Despite the problems, it looks like you're winning, John.
This is gonna be a nice looking box when finished.

Your posts are always great, John. Many thanks.
I must need a new prescription for glasses. Would you mind telling if you made finger or dovetail joints please?
How is the weather in your beautiful part of the world?

An old farmer in Sydney, the last time I was there, there weren't and fields around

Up to the present position on box all joints are plain mitres which I cut on the table saw using a sled/jig.

The upto date progress on box.

Still progressing with this box, cutting some 4 mm oak faced ply and planing to size on the shooting board these are for the bottom drawer and the base of box.

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Fitted and glued to the drawer without any rebate or support at present. Might add stringers to the inside edge but thinking of partitions to come perhaps.

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a further piece dry fitted to the base of box for present.

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A neighbour has given me some silk hand painted pieces for me to line each compartment of the box as per pictures below. I have in mind gluing them with diluted pva (which I assume will be transparent when dry?) .

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