Thread: Corner Spline Blade.

Do you mean splines, running from top to bottom at right angles to the mitre,
edge_miter_joint_reinforced_with_spline.jpg
or slipfeathers, which are horizontal?
Completed 5.jpg
Both can be done using a table saw blade, and are probably best with a thin blade rather than the usual 1/8" one. However, the slipfeathers can also be made using a thin hand saw and veneers. I use a gentleman's saw. Because they are strongest along the grain, the slipfeathers can be quite thin.

Remember that vertical splines need to have the grain running across the joint to have maximum strength.

Thanks Alex, Its the horizontal kind I'm doing. Did one yesterday with a fine tooth blade but it left a little V in the end cut which you can see when after the spline goes in.
Plus the blade has a 3mm kerf and I'm looking for 4mm minimum.

I use a 300mm diameter flat top ripping blade.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/ci...lar-saw-blades

try a 4mm solid carbite router cutter.
of course, you'll need to build a suitable jig to support the router, or the box over a table mounted router

Originally Posted by Kuffy

I use a 300mm diameter flat top ripping blade.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/ci...lar-saw-blades

Every question answered, i love this place. It came to mind in the middle of the night that aluminium cutting blades have flat teeth so i was going to look at that angle so thanks Kuffy, this will kill two birds as i also do a lot of ripping.

Ian, i thought about the router but i've made a sled for the saw so didn't want to waste that effort.

Contact your local saw people - I got a flat grind on a saw blade
Henry Bros did it for me - they might do 4mm blades you could ask
or go the router option

My saw takes a maximum 250mm blade so the 300mm x 4mm is out. I won't settle for a thinner blade so i'll have to go the Sawdust Maker option.

curious as to what design aesthetic is driving the use of 4mm "feathers"

double.d, the diameter of the blade doesn't have to be 300mm. From memory, I use a Triton 8" flat top grind blade with 2mm kerf. It only needs to project a short distance above the table level, depending of course on the design of your jig.

I use a standard Forrest Woodworker II 10" blade with a 1/8" kerf. You just have to make sure you get the ATB+R grind. The "R" makes every fifth tooth a "raker" with a flat grind. This is an excellent blade.

Originally Posted by ciscokid

I use a standard Forrest Woodworker II 10" blade with a 1/8" kerf. You just have to make sure you get the ATB+R grind. The "R" makes every fifth tooth a "raker" with a flat grind. This is an excellent blade.

I think you'll get a better cut by not having a full flat cut on every tooth. You could have either every 5th tooth a raker, as in Cisco's suggestion, or, as Henry Bros. did for me, grind a half flat on each tooth, with the flat on alternating sides.

Alex
can you put up a photo of the grind, please

Originally Posted by ian

curious as to what design aesthetic is driving the use of 4mm "feathers"

I just think that 3mm is to small and 4mm would look better.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Alex
can you put up a photo of the grind, please

Will do.