Thread: Jewellry Box for my Sister

Very nice outcome there Dave. You have used a lot of different and varying techniques in those joints. I like the joint you used on your cross members for your tray. Sort of a through housing/butt joint looks very effective. The linings and ring holders have come up well very nice also.

Your comment about the "The challenges of the 'cut the lid off' method - fitting of the hinges leaves no room for alignment errors, even tiny ones" is an interesting one. One I think a lot struggle with. I do. And when one opens a box and see very nice solid brass hinges sitting there really tends to make the box I'm usually always out that smidgeon when you run your fingers across the sides and front of the box and get that little "just not quite right" feel. I've come up with a procedural method to remedy that, which I think I outlined somewhere on another thread.

Paul

Very nice result, Dave. Bet you're glad you used that banksia now. Nice work on the lining and ring holders too. Did you stain the black trim? what did you use, I like the rays showing through the black.

Thanks Alex. Yes it is a bit of a relief to have it finished, if it hadn't have worked out I would have had to keep schtum. The stain is Feast Watson Proof Tint black. Next time I use one of these stains I'll prefinish the stained parts with sanding sealer before I assemble the components. Luckily I noticed the colour bleed before it caused any problem.

Dave, how did you make the ring holders.
I am making four boxes for grand daughters and had a few ideas, but interested to see what you did to get the slots like you have.

Regards.

John.

Nice result David. Sometimes jobs just seem to go on forever which is the way I feel about a box I have just finished. Little things just seem to keep cropping up that you have to overcome, but the end result is certainly worth it.

Feast Watson Proof Tint black .... it is very convincing. I've put it on my list To Grab

It works nicely with the rays of the wood. I like it.

I think you are beating yourself up far too much. A box is more than some automatic-factory-perfect thing. It has effort put into it. More than just love, it carries a bit of your soul.

Every recipient would be happy with it.

My observation, lids are always a bastard. Always.

Hint! - Keeping schtum is every good box makers dark secret. One never points out the faults..... you see them, the recipients sure don't.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Hint! - Keeping schtum is every good box makers dark secret. One never points out the faults..... you see them, the recipients sure don't.

Faults? Wot faults?

i’ve used FW Prooftint black a bit. My experience suggests:

1. Sand the box as smooth as you can before staining as it is easy to sand through the stain.
2. Don’t dilute the stain much if at all.
3. Use more than one coat to make sure it gets into the timber.
4. I’ve used shellac as a finish - comes up nicely.
5. Prooftint also comes in Black Japan (haven’t used that yet).

Nice box, David. Always special when you can rescue a project that you think may end up in the bin.

Regards,

Brian

Bin? Like this blokes! How the f do you guys do it??? : woodworking

I am off to Voldemort today, thought to grab a little pot of the Japan Black FWPT and give it a go on some pine, oak and .... hmmm... meranti? (a stick of the near anonymous hardwood that cursed place sells).

Originally Posted by Wimmera Jack

Dave, how did you make the ring holders.
I am making four boxes for grand daughters and had a few ideas, but interested to see what you did to get the slots like you have.

Regards.

John.

Hi John,

Sorry for the delay in replying, been busy. I've attached a few photos that will hopefully be of some help. The material that I've been using for the ring holders is a stiff foam that I collect from packing cases when the opportunity arises, I'm always on the lookout for stuff like this. Undoubtedly there are other similar materials around if you put your thinking cap on. This material cuts very nicely on the tablesaw with a fine tooth crosscut blade. I cut it 22 to 30mm thick with the length the same as the recess I want to fit it to and 1 to 2mm narrower than the recess. Then cut 16 to 18mm deep slots at 20mm increments across the foam.

Calculate the length of material you need and cut it about 50mm longer than you need. Open the slots in the foam, a paperclip cut to make two U nails and a piece of string between them to create the tension to open the slots works well. Spray the foam and material with spray adhesive, you don't need much a light spray will do, whatever you do don't soak it. At this point, unless you have four hands, rope in the wife. Start at an end with at least 20mm overlap on the base; use a fine shaft screwdriver, metal skewer or similar to push the material down into the slots working from one to the next; make sure you're holding the material on the top of the previous slot on the foam base before you move from one slot to the next. Try to keep it straight. Once you get to the end cut off any unwanted material.

Hot melt glue gun time. Have a practice fold to get a nice finish on the corners, you may need to cut a triangular section off each corner to get rid of some bulk. Once you're happy with the fit move to the first slot pulling the material into shape to ensure you're happy with the shape then stick the corners on to the foam using the hot glue gun; put the glue on the material NOT the foam, you'll melt it. You'll need to hold the material in place until the glue hardens. You should now be able to move from one slot to the next sticking the material to the foam as you go. You need to work one slot ahead to organise the material. Does it sound tedious? IT IS!!!

Good luck.

Many thanks Dave.