Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    118

    Default Felt for lining boxes / drawers - what do you use?

    Hi all,

    I'm wondering if there's any better felt out there than the Spotlight/Lincraft felt? I want to line drawers and boxes, but the craft felt can go a bit hairy after a bit of use. I've seen a suggestion for billiard felt but that stuff seems very expensive! Maybe I'm just looking the wrong place?

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Age
    62
    Posts
    1,904

    Default

    I use "suede" matboard made by Crescent. It can be found at most picture framing suppliers and comes in a wide variety of colors. It is approximately 2mm thick and is fairly rigid. Easy to cut with a razor knife. I glue it to my plywood bottom with spray adhesive and trim it after the glue dries. It feels very nice and holds up rather well.

    Never thought about using billiard table felt. Next time I have my table recovered I won't let the guy take the old stuff with him.

    Here's a couple of shots of me first cutting a piece out slightly oversize and then gluing it to my plywood bottom. After curing overnight I simply trim the edges with a razor knife.

    box47.JPG
    box48.JPG


    Here's a shot of a box where I used beige "suede" matboard for the box bottom and the tray bottom.

    box202.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images
    When all is said and done, there is usually a whole lot more said than done.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    There is a multitude of materials out there, from felt, faux suede, velvet, crushed velour, even to the real real pig skin suede. For the materials most are available at Lincraft, spotlight or any decent haberdashery. Most of the materials used are glued to card with spray adhesive. I’ve used felt once and never again. But some may tell you otherwise. If your not sure just ask them at spotlight for some faux suede or “lining suitable for a jewellery box.

    anyway good luck.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ciscokid View Post
    I use "suede" matboard made by Crescent. It can be found at most picture framing suppliers and comes in a wide variety of colors. It is approximately 2mm thick and is fairly rigid. Easy to cut with a razor knife. I glue it to my plywood bottom with spray adhesive and trim it after the glue dries. It feels very nice and holds up rather well.
    Thanks! I like the idea of using this stuff. I want to line some drawers including the sides. What's the cross section like? Is it all the same colour as the front? I've noticed some stuff is sold as "white core" - don't really want to see a white strip along the edge.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post
    There is a multitude of materials out there, from felt, faux suede, velvet, crushed velour, even to the real real pig skin suede. For the materials most are available at Lincraft, spotlight or any decent haberdashery. Most of the materials used are glued to card with spray adhesive. I’ve used felt once and never again. But some may tell you otherwise. If your not sure just ask them at spotlight for some faux suede or “lining suitable for a jewellery box.

    anyway good luck.
    I hadn't thought of using card first...so the process is to spread it out, glue on the card, then glue the card to the wood? Sounds a LOT easier than trying to glue directly to the wood, which I've done before and remember it was a bit fiddly. Also, do you just spray the felt and card, leave it a bit to dry, then spread the felt onto the card to stick? I've had mixed results with spray adhesive but it's probably user error!
    Thanks!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,677

    Default

    Another option is Baize which is self adhesive and available here or Gikins Dovetail. If you watch this video from Gifkins and skip to the 17:10 mark, Col shows how to apply it. I haven't used it so I'm not sure if it shows any raw edge colouring.
    Dallas

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Mooroolbark
    Posts
    520

    Default

    I use suede from Spotlight. Like others have said there is a variety of varying quality materials from places light Spotlight.

    Cheers,
    Peter

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    The one that Dallas just put the link up to, from CWA, I use the black to line the walls of a watch box. With the adhesive felt glued to cardboard. Purely for the purpose of protecting the watches. I think the stuff Col uses in that video that Dallas put up, is pretty much the same. I've got a very large roll of it in red, that I haven't used for some years now. But I am making a box at present I intend to use it for the base.

    Paul

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    1,243

    Default

    I haven't made a box for quite a while, too busy doing other stuff, but when I started to make my 1st boxes I cringed at the look of boring old felt. So I bought stacks of different Chinese Brocade, glued 3mm sponge rubber to heavy cardstock then the material to the sponge, all with spray adhesive. I originally bought the Brocade in Cabramatta, but it and the cardstock, spray adhesive and sponge rubber are all available at Spotlight or Lincraft now. Have received many compliments on the lining.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Age
    62
    Posts
    1,904

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    Thanks! I like the idea of using this stuff. I want to line some drawers including the sides. What's the cross section like? Is it all the same colour as the front? I've noticed some stuff is sold as "white core" - don't really want to see a white strip along the edge.


    I don't think that it would be suitable for the sides because you would see the white edge. It is superlative for the bottoms however.
    When all is said and done, there is usually a whole lot more said than done.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Thanks all for your input - much appreciated!!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    So many good answers and Im late to the party....

    I've made hundreds of boxes. I love them.

    Someone on the forum sent me a huge box of photography mounting board. It is black and beige. It is SUPERB.

    For the white edge, use a black sharpie to colour it. It lasts forever, is indistinguishable and easily repaired.

    It has survived busy commercial environments too... it look s fragile, but for 2 years (or more) these images below have been used daily for belt displays.

    edit - the card is stuck directly to the object, after using the sharpie on the edge, using the tape below.



    The other product I use is pig-skin split suede from Sydney Leather. It comes in a wide number of colours.... but these guys carry more colours (but pricing is a bit higher)...

    AU - Single Butt Splits
    UK - ALL SUEDE SKINS – GH LEATHERS LTD

    The suede is wrapped over cardboard from cereal boxes. Its the perfect thickness. It is stuck down with this tape (which is used in the fashion industry for exactly this purpose)... 5mm~100mm wide, 30 Meters, For Shoes/Clothes/Bag Embroidered Stitch Fasten Double Sided Oil Glue Tape

    The pig skin split has also survived years of daily use by Myers and David Jones as use in jewellery displays for their counters. I gave them shoe polishing brushes to brush them all down daily. No repairs or replaces yet, despite daily use.


    Both are highly recommended.

    I tried felt... but OMG, why this material exists or even recommend is beyond conception. Terrible terrible stuff.



    CARD LINED


    jeanswest belt displays (1).jpgjeanswest belt displays (2).jpg


    SUEDE LINED


    MonPurse Displays (1).jpgMonPurse Displays (2).jpgMonPurse Displays (3).jpgdart boxes.jpgDungeons and Dragons Dice Box 7.jpg

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default

    Someone on the forum sent me a huge box of photography mounting board. It is black and beige. It is SUPERB.
    Was that Framer? He gave me a heap too. I agree with what you say.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    Was that Framer? He gave me a heap too. I agree with what you say.
    You know, it could have actually been you.... it was off the forum, someone GAVE them away, two decent sized boxes of outers and inners.

    Some of the sizes are a bit whacky, but they have been incredibly useful over the years.

    Its weird, for I always (well, I thought always!) write down in my spreadsheet the date, item, origin and notes for everything I acquire... in case I need more, etc. In this case its not there!

    Ive been hacked by The Nasties!

    I'll do a long dig and see if I can find it, but I'd be unsurprised if it weren't your incredible generosity or that of Framers



    Evan

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ciscokid View Post
    I don't think that it would be suitable for the sides because you would see the white edge.
    You could trim an angled relief in the sides with a small rebate plane for the top edge to roll into; I've done this for flocked parts before and it works a treat. Just run them over the table saw to depth so the distance to the top is consistent, then blend by hand.

    PXL_20210309_085437694.jpg

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,105

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    You could trim an angled relief in the sides with a small rebate plane for the top edge to roll into; I've done this for flocked parts before and it works a treat. Just run them over the table saw to depth so the distance to the top is consistent, then blend by hand.

    PXL_20210309_085437694.jpg

    Elan's methodology gives a very sophisticated effect although, personally, I would use a much gentler taper, avoiding that shoulder. Secondly, by varying the height of the lining then you can turn it into a design feature. Something like this:

    Liner.jpg

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Leather for lining drawers
    By derekcohen in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 7th April 2019, 07:23 PM
  2. Timber for lining cutlery drawers?
    By waveink in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 22nd October 2008, 09:31 PM
  3. Replies: 13
    Last Post: 24th December 2004, 04:10 PM
  4. lining for boxes?????
    By bob at woodheap vic in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 1st July 2000, 03:00 PM
  5. lining for boxes????
    By bob at woodheap vic in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11th April 2000, 12:16 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •