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18th August 2013, 02:01 PM #1
Merbau & Camphor Laurel Jewellery Box - WIP
This will just be a fairly basic small jewellery box, while I continue to try to learn the basics. Hopefully I won't outsmart myself in the bid for a better box, and that I'll be lucky like with the first box.
The sides, bottom and the inside of the top panel will be from Merbau and the outside of the top panel will be figured Camphor Laurel. I'll add a figured Camphor Laurel lid lift and a plain unfigured Camphor Laurel tray. The size will be 230mm x 142mm x 88mm tall.
Also, since I got away with my first box without problems, I'll raise the bar a notch and add contrasting Camphor Laurel mitre keys this time. I made a mitre key sled for the router table a few days ago, but it hasn't fired a shot in anger yet.
I might also add small Camphor Laurel feet/legs. I haven't made up my mind on that.
I'll line the bottoms of both the main box and the tray with felt, and will probably use brass butt hinges and a couple of pairs of magnets to hold the lid down.
Any suggestions along the way are welcome, especially if it looks like I'm about to stuff something up.
So far, I've got most of the timber prepared and the sides are dimensioned with the slots for the top & bottom cut and ready to cut the mitres this afternoon. I still need to cut some timber for the bottom of the tray, (forgot), and some bits for the lid lift, tray supports and feet.
The sides and bottom: -
a. Sides & bottom - Merbau.jpg
Lid panel stock - Merbau inside, Camphor Laurel outside. I'm slowly bleaching the grey out of the lighter area of the Camphor Laurel with 'Exit Mould'. I'm hoping I can get rid of most of it.: -
b. Top panel stock - Merbau inside, CL outside.JPG
Tray sides & dividers: -
c. Tray sides & dividers - Camphor Laurel.jpg
The grooves in the sides for the lid and bottom panels: -
d. Side grooves cut.jpg... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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18th August 2013 02:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th August 2013, 02:51 PM #2
G'Day Steve,
I've dropped in to see how it's done..
Cheers, crowie
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18th August 2013, 03:41 PM #3
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19th August 2013, 04:21 PM #4
I got the mitres cut without incident. That was the nervous bit, but they look OK.
Also made a pair of tray supports and resawed some more CL then edge-joined it for the tray base.
I'll put the tray supports on the inside of the front and rear, before assembly.
e. Cutting the mitres.jpg f. Mitres done, tray supports & base.jpg
When I made the last box, I put the finish on the inside before assembly as well. I figured it was easier than afterwards, and it made it much easier to remove the squeeze-out after glue-up. I put a thin smear of wax over the poly on surfaces adjoining the ones to be joined and the glue literally fell off when I cleaned up after separating the lid. A quick wipe with white spirits and the wax residue was gone. I masked all of the surfaces that were to be glued with masking tape while applying the finish.
Is this a good idea, or is there a good reason why it shouldn't be done that way? It sure beats trying to sand and apply finish to the inside of the box after assembly. I'm planning to attach the tray supports first.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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19th August 2013, 04:31 PM #5
Applying finish before assembly is sometimes the only way to go especially when padding on stuff like French polish.
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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19th August 2013, 04:44 PM #6
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24th August 2013, 04:39 PM #7
Progress has been slow, but I'm getting there.
Five coats of sanding sealer later, the inside of the sides is sealed and ready for a final sand then a couple of coats of WOP. The Wattyl sanding sealer takes a full day to dry well enough to sand for the next coat, so the 5 coats took 5 days.
The sanding sealer really brings out the chocolate & honey colour that I like so much.
g. Sides - 5 coats SS.jpg
The top and bottom panels are prepared to fit nicely in their slots and ready for SS too. Bleaching the veneer for the top panel was taking way too long, so I used a different piece for the feature. Not as nice, but it'll have to do.
For the feature panels on my next boxes, hopefully I can bring home some nice timber from the Canberra show next week. My first wood show - can't wait. GlenRob was kind enough to offer me a ride and is going way out of his way to pick me up - Goulburn to Nowra to Canberra. Thanks Bob, much appreciated.
h. Top & bottom ready.jpg
I have a few more days working on the interior finish, then I can finally assemble the carcass. I must be the slowest box-maker on the forums.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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5th September 2013, 01:47 PM #8
After a few days off to do other stuff, I was all prepared to glue and clamp the carcass today. I did a dry clamp-up to see how everything fits and found that there's too big a gap around the top CL panel.
i. Bad lid fit 1.jpg j. Bad lid fit 2.jpg
I wanted to make sure there was a gap, for expansion, but obviously I overdid it.
I'm not sure which way I'll go yet. I'll ponder it this afternoon. If only I'd done a 'raised panel' type edge. I wouldn't have this problem.
I guess the options are:
a. Glue a narrow strip around the top edge of the sides before assembly, leaving just enough room for lid panel expansion. Pale CL to match the mitre keys and lid lift might look good.
b. Trim the 4 sides and edges of the lid and base to match the top.
c. Make a new top. This appeals, because I don't like the piece of CL. Sanding removed the nice book-match that I started with. I've bleached most of the grey from the CL that I originally planned to use, so it's good to go now, and I've got another right-sized piece of Merbau for the substrate.Also have a new 'Ovolo' bit that looks like it could make a neat mini raised panel edge.I'll use a bowl & tray bit to make a mini raised panel edge. (Was thinking backwards.)
d. (Not keen on this one.) Go ahead and assemble the box, then, when the panel is nicely centred, pour casting resin into the gap all the way around.
I saw a box done this way at the Canberra Wood Show, but I would think that it defeats the purpose of making a floating panel in the first place - no provision for expansion.
A bit of a pain, but I won't let it bother me too much, it's all part of the learning process. I'll bet I'm more careful next time.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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5th September 2013, 04:36 PM #9Thankful Member
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Looks great as always Steve. Is that the one that was in pieces on your table when I was there last week?
I wish I had the time to do some more small jobs for a while, but I'm stuck with this router table task that I've set myself. At least that's seeing some progress tho. Got one of the Melamine tops on today and considering the way I've been feeling lately, that's quite an accomplishment.
BTW, just got my Incra Mitre 3000SE this arvo. I'm up to my armpits in Incra.
Cheers,
bob
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5th September 2013, 05:36 PM #10
Yep. I've been a bit slow with it, been busy playing with the VW model and looking at lathes. I'm buying a little 10" x 18" from Pop's Shed, with a 2" scroll chuck and 4 sets of jaws. Just the right size.
I wish I had the time to do some more small jobs for a while, but I'm stuck with this router table task that I've set myself. At least that's seeing some progress tho. Got one of the Melamine tops on today and considering the way I've been feeling lately, that's quite an accomplishment.
BTW, just got my Incra Mitre 3000SE this arvo. I'm up to my armpits in Incra.
Cheers,
bob
It's great getting new toys, isn't it? That Mitre 3000 would be fantastic. I've been meaning to get the small Incra mitre gauge, but been slack. Gotta stock up on stuff to go with the lathe right now - chisels, face shield and yes, a grinder. (Should have remembered to put the one that you gave me into the car, shouldn't I? ) Not to worry, I'll pick one up locally fairly cheap.
At this point, I'm leaning toward a new top panel for the box, with the edges shaped using the 'Ovolo' 'Bowl and Tray' bit, rather than stepped. (Not used to thinking router bits and was thinking backwards.)
Edit: All this does raise a question, though. I'm leaving about 1mm gap all around the tongue of the lid, inside the slot, but (with the stepped edge) 1mm is too wide for the expansion gap for the top. What is a good gap around the top panel?... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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