Thread: My Myrtle Keepsake Box

Nice job.
That Quilted Myrtle came up a treat. I'll have to keep my eyes open and try to get my hands on some.
The lining turned out pretty good, too - nice and neat. I much prefer felt or other fabric linings to flocking. Flocking always looks a bit second-rate at the edges.

Very nice The joinery and finish look great.

Hi Steven,

Really nice box and I particularly like the lide with the lid with the lighter surround and the darker inlay.

As a failry new woodworker I love trying to learn new techniques.

Could you share exactly how you did this? Is the bookmatched myrtle put into the slotted sides and sawn off later? Or Did you make a separate frame and panel lid then glu it to the box and then saw it off?

Cheers

Andrew

Originally Posted by hellofellow

Hi Steven,

Really nice box and I particularly like the lide with the lid with the lighter surround and the darker inlay.

As a failry new woodworker I love trying to learn new techniques.

Could you share exactly how you did this? Is the bookmatched myrtle put into the slotted sides and sawn off later? Or Did you make a separate frame and panel lid then glu it to the box and then saw it off?

Cheers

Andrew

Thanks Andrew,
I certainly don't consider myself an expert, but will show you a quick WIP on how i made my box.

Please don't take this as the right way, this is just my way. I'm sure there are better and more "correct" methods.

First up was to cut the pieces for the sides. They started out as one billet that was approx 400mmX75mmX75mm (you can see more smaller billets in the background). I ripped this into 4 pieces that ended up being 400mmX75mmX15mm.
I wanted the sides to be 90mm, so i glued the English Ash on the top and bottom to extend the sides to this measurement. I ended up with this.



To add the mulga, i cut a small rebate onto the top edge and glued small strips in, then trimmed for a clean finish. I'm sure this is not the preferred method for most of doing an inlay (and it's the first time i'ved used this method) but it worked on this occasion.



At this point i cut all pieces to finished lenghts and cut the mitres on my table saw. Then i prepared the lid insert. The Quilted Myrtle is actually only 4mm thick. I ripped a 12mm thick peice into two 4mm pieces then glued them together for a bookmatched top. I glued this to a 4mm MDF substrate then added another plain veneer underneath for a 12mm sandwitch.



Sorry, no pics from here on.

I cut a rebate around the top of the lid insert to fit into a groove i cut into the sides, this enabled me to have a flat top to the box. I also cut a groove along the bottom of the sides for a bottom panel. I then glued the whole lot together and ended up with a closed box. When the glue was dry, I then cut the lid off. This time i cut the lid off at my router table with a 2mm slot cutter but in the past i have done this at the table saw. All that was left to do now was the mitre keys and the internal pieces.

Clear as mud. I hope i haven't confused you with this lot.

Thanks all for looking and all the likes.

Steven.

Stunning result. This is amazing work. Can I ask - why bother with another veneer under the base of the MDF lid? If it's being covered by the felt anyway, I just wonder why bother with this?

Ps this could just be my laziness showing through!

Originally Posted by bassmansimon

Stunning result. This is amazing work. Can I ask - why bother with another veneer under the base of the MDF lid? If it's being covered by the felt anyway, I just wonder why bother with this?

Ps this could just be my laziness showing through!

Thanks mate.

My understanding is that if you dont balance a top veneer with a base veneer under the MDF you will increase the chance of cupping. Not sure if this is true, but i have always used this method with good results.
I knew i was going to cover the underside veneer with felt so used a plain timber here (it was 4mm stringy i had left over from my chest of draws).

It is for this reason i always put several coats of varnish under all my cabinet tops aswell.

I may be wasting my time but i see it as a 'better to be safe than sorry' situation.

Steven.

Thanks, that makes sense.

Thanks so much for the details

Dont worry, it was clearer than mud. The only part I wanted clarification on was the attachmet of the lid? I have an image in my head of a groove say 0.5mmx 0.5 all the way around the outside of the box (from the top edge) and the rebate to match on the lid to match. So kind of like an upside down " L" rather than a true tongue and groove? where the groove is cut a few mm from the top of the sides?

Thanks again and I really appreciate the time spent explaining. I love how much you can learn here... Have said it before and will say it again, woodworkers are such a helpful bunch!!!

Cheers

Andrew

Spokeshave is correct. Finishes and veneers should always be balanced top and bottom (or both sides).