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24th August 2019, 06:19 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Picture postcard box - help needed
Hello, my eldest daughter has an open cardboard box containing 100 cards. This box slides into an outer box with a viewing window, the idea being that you can view a single card, and then replace it with another card later on.
She has asked to make the two boxes out of some nice timber, and with a glass face for the viewing face of the outer box. The viewing face is needed to cover the white surrounds of the card behind it.
I have never made a thin walled box before, usually keeping to 10mm thickness. Obviously, this design requires a thinner wall thickness. Can anyone please suggest a stable timber to use, and how best to joint the corners ?
I imagine that the timber would have some aesthetic requirements, so as not to distract from the card being viewed.
Also, I would welcome suggestions on how to make the frame, with one side open, and another side having a glass viewing window.
Can anyone please advise a suitable glass thickness?
All ideas and suggestions are very much welcomed
IMG-3738 Large.JPG IMG-3739 Large.JPG IMG-3740 Large.JPGregards,
Dengy
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24th August 2019 06:19 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th August 2019, 06:42 PM #2Senior Member
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Dengy, interesting project, I,m thinking out loud, Top quality marine ply, with choice of veneers, dovetail joints glued and pinned with brass rod, instead of glass I would use lexan. I am going to follow this with interest.
When I say glued I,m referring to west system or atl epoxy glue on dovetails but with aereosil ( a form of cotton in fine powder form) white filler added to form a small internal fillet on all internal crns. top and bottom and sides of outside corners of inner box would need a small bevel to clear the fillet
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24th August 2019, 07:55 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Joe,
You seem to have plenty of interesting projects on the go!
I make quite a few small boxes for our local neighbourhood centre to sell. In many ways these are similar to what you have in mind. They are 200mm x 100mm x 60mm
D4CDADEF-6E9B-4FA1-ADCC-ED19897FF235.jpeg
4564560A-D2E2-445A-9179-C115867686A5.jpeg
Usually I make the sides from 5mm spotted gum from flooring offcuts although I have used walnut and rosewood. I use small rebate joints for the corners and I’ve never had one come apart. The sides are glued to the base (MDF painted with milk paint) which helps give strength.
I haven’t found working with thin timber such as jewellery box trays (mine are typically 4mm) much different from 10 or 12mm. Sometimes I’ve drilled two holes on the rebate joint then put in a couple of small brass escutcheon pins. A drop of CA glue in the hole first. Tap the pins in, leaving say 3mm sticking out, snip this part off with side cutters and gently (very) file flush with the side.
Alternatively, just use slipfeathers of the same timber across the corners, or even something contrasting made of alternating veneers:
F0470078-D5EE-4C77-B71C-134F5E7B1FE0.jpeg
Best regards,
Brian
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25th August 2019, 12:03 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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25th August 2019, 01:43 AM #5Senior Member
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25th August 2019, 11:54 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Ian, that makes sense. Can you recommend an adhesive that will stick the Lexan into a surrounding timber frame? Silicone?
regards,
Dengy
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25th August 2019, 01:05 PM #7Senior Member
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Dengy, I use polyurethane ,Sika flex brand, but think silicone would work also.
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25th August 2019, 08:29 PM #8
I don't have any advice on the construction but be careful with how you fit the Lexan if you use it. I don't know if it reacts the same as Perspex but Perspex (Plexiglas®) has a high coefficient of expansion so needs some clearance around it if fitted to a rebate.
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25th August 2019, 08:56 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Dallas, thats very interesting to know, must keep that in mind. Not that I have used it as described.
Paul
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27th August 2019, 02:58 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Joe, I have some 1.5mm thick Clear acrylic I could send your way, its left overs from a photo frame I made for the Mother In law a few year ago.
let me know what size you need and I can have it far north as fast as Aus post wants to get it there.
why not route a slot so that the Perspex sits in a groove and can expand and contract without the need for an adhesive.
Richard
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1st October 2019, 08:59 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for this kind offer, Fumbler. Sorry I did not see it earlier.
I have changed the design, a bit of lateral thinking, and have been working on this over the past month or more. Getting sick of the look of it.
Basically, I have made a box with one long side a small picture frame with 3mm glass, for all the cards to sit in. The 100 card pack is dropped into the box and the front card presses up against the glass. The cards are held in position by a timber wedge behind the last card.
The top of the box is a sliding pencil case lid, held shut with magnets.
Nearly finished, so will post some picsregards,
Dengy
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1st October 2019, 10:11 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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New Design
The picture box is made of blac kbean timber 10mm thick, and the picture frame side will have 3mm glass.
The box OD is 260 x 130 x 90, and there is an ebony base 10mm thick which protrudes around all sides by 10mm
The frame for the glass is 18mm high x 10mm thick, and on that the front is bevelled, and the rear has a 3 x 4mm rabbet for the glass, and a 4mm slot top and bottom for the base and the sliding lid. So it was very tight and a bit fiddly. In addition, the mitred corners of the frame were drilled for a 4mm dowel for re-inforcing the joint. Black bean is fairly oily, and somewhat difficult to glue, so there was lots of acetone prior to gluing.
All the box corner joints are butt jointed with 4mm dowels, and the mitre joints for the frame and the ebony base are reinforced with 4mm dowels. The box glued with Titebond III which dries to a suitable brown colour. I normally use keyed mitre joints for box corners, but the front frame was so full with rebates, bevels and slots that it was a bit too risky.e
All dowel holes are located using a mild steel jig I had made at a local Engineering shop to give 4mm holes 20mm apart. Also useful for checking the size of the dowels.
Pictures below are at the stage of ready to apply Kunos #244 oil
P1040472 Large.JPG P1040481 Large.jpg P1040504 Large.jpg P1060923 Large.jpg P1060961 Large.jpgP1070004 Large.jpg P1070016 Large.jpg P1070019 Large.jpg P1070023 Large.jpg P1070033 Large.jpgregards,
Dengy
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1st October 2019, 10:19 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Pics continued
This is a collection of pics of the box glued up and sliding lid made.
P1070051 Large.JPG P1070052 Large.jpg P1070057 Large.jpg P1070065 Large.JPG P1070101 Large.jpg
P1070132 Large.jpg P1070136 Large.jpg P1070139 Large.JPG P1070141 Large.jpg P1070147 Large.JPGregards,
Dengy
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1st October 2019, 11:16 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Lovely work, Joe, and a very precise fit everywhere. I especially like the number of dowels you’ve used to join the sides - a bit of the engineer coming out there?
Love to see another pic or two once you’ve put the Kunos 244 on it.
Best regards,
Brian
PS - How’s the collection cabinet going?
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1st October 2019, 11:36 PM #15GOLD MEMBER
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thanks for the nice comments, Brian, much appreciated.
Yep, the number of dowels are a bit of overkill, for sure. I didn't trust the butt joints at all with that oily timber. but it was no extra trouble to put a lot more holes in with that jig. It was a bit stressful beforehand, but they all fitted perfectly. Well machined jig !
The collection cabinet --well, ummm , have been putting it off and off, letting other things like this picture box and the 3 dog bowl stands take precedence. When there is a high risk of failure, I tend to do that. Once this picture box is posted off, it is 100% collection cabinet with no disruptions until it is finished !!!!
Have left it a bit late, with the shed getting quite hot now. Time to get the headbands out to stop the salty sweat landing on the cast iron surfaces and on the workpieces.regards,
Dengy
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