Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 31 to 37 of 37
-
5th June 2016, 09:42 AM #31GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Location
- Imbil
- Posts
- 1,167
I did the same as described by africansurgeon with my trimmer in releasing the cam lock and feeding the depth by hand I lowered it in a couple of stages by hand locked it again and repeated process till full depth was achieved no problem at all as you have full depth contact in the template all the time. I used a solid carbide spiral upcut bit and it did a perfect job.
Regards Rod.Rod Gilbert.
-
5th June 2016 09:42 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
5th June 2016, 08:39 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,040
Downcut bits aren't designed for deep mortising, they're for dadoes, grooves and shallow mortises, upcut bits are designed for deep mortising.
If you only want one 1/4" bit the link will see you paying over A$90 for it! There are many cheaper options of the same quality available from Australian sellers.
There is no need to use a 1/4" bit for the stay mortise, 1/8" is more than sufficient and the bits are much cheaper.
If you add a plunge base to your trimmer router will there be sufficient clearance between the now larger router base and the clamps to allow you to cut the required mortise? - probably not.
It's not that hard to make your own hinge template. If you make your own you're not limited to using the same hinge for everything you do.
I guess if you want everything done for you and are happy to have every box you make constrained by the hinge template you use (hinge size, side thickness etc.) this could be a good way to go.
Just my 2 cents worth!
-
6th June 2016, 05:06 AM #33Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Bunbury, Western Australia
- Age
- 46
- Posts
- 36
Thank you for your comments, aldav. In case of cutting the pockets for hinges downcut bit could be more preferable in case you have to install hinges to the already finished box, especially with thin walls. Downcut is much more gentle to the surface, upcut can split the timber. But I've tried both with almost identical results.
To cut the slot 30mm deep you need a bit 60mm long. 1/8 bit of this length would be very brittle. I've designed the templates for 1/4 bit because this is the standard size for hand trimmers. But of course the set could be designed for 1/8 or any other size bit just do not think it would be practical.
And of course, making your own templates, hinges, jewelry boxes and space ships is quite easy. This question was already explored by scientists and named "Dunning–Kruger effect". Here is the article in wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunnin...3Kruger_effect
-
6th June 2016, 12:08 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,040
I have never experienced an upcut bit splitting the timber and your comments tend to indicate that you probably haven’t either. If you buy quality bits and use and maintain them properly this problem is never likely to arise.
Yes, you do need to use the proper technique and a plunge router. Deep mortising should be performed making multiple overlapping full depth plunges followed by multiple, progressively deeper, passes to clear out the remaining waste. Yes, it is important to keep in mind the fragility of the bit when clearing the waste. That being said, this is not a difficult process.
Thank you for your flattering implication as to my abilities conveyed by your link. However, I’m not sure that your praise is justified.
-
6th June 2016, 04:48 PM #35Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Bunbury, Western Australia
- Age
- 46
- Posts
- 36
I can not see any practical reason to use 1/8 bit instead of standard 1/4 bit for the hinges pockets. Plus for 1/8 you also need a quite rare collet or an adapter to use in standard 1/4 trimmer. I use downcuts 6x30x70 in my box making and happy with them. I order them directly from the factory. If anybody interested - please, PM me, I'll give you contacts, or if administrators of this forum would agree, I could write all details here. Last time I've paid 8 USD per bit for HRC55 carbide without postage.
And regarding your opinions about my boxes, David, your comment "The only ‘hand’ work in them is sticking the pieces together and painting them" characterizes you, as an experienced box maker, more then perfectly.
-
6th June 2016, 07:36 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,040
???
-
11th June 2016, 05:58 PM #37GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Valla Beach
- Posts
- 1,191
Just thought I would share the finished product of the box I put on this thread reviewing Andrew's template/s. This is very similar to a box I put on this site not that long ago, that box sold pretty fast so I stuck to that design for this one. All timber is Blue Gum. I've started another box to test out Andrew's lock templates, interesting box, should appear very rustic looking on completion.
Paul
Similar Threads
-
My first attempt using a quadrant hinge
By Pauls321 in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 17Last Post: 22nd January 2016, 05:54 PM -
Smart Hinge or Neat Hinge alternatives?
By Evanism in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 3Last Post: 25th April 2015, 09:41 AM -
Hinge installation problems
By pwjupp in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 15Last Post: 9th October 2009, 06:12 AM -
Source for quadrant hinge
By Krazee in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 2Last Post: 23rd January 2007, 05:26 PM -
Edge treatment and hinge installation for folding card-table top
By Rocker in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 4Last Post: 23rd December 2005, 06:05 AM