Thread: Question For Gifkin Jig Users...

Corey

I've only in the process of making two boxes since I got my Gifkins Jig but my first box was 3/8" and my second one was 1/2". I used the right hand side of the jig to make the 3/8" and then moved the 1/2" to the middle or left hand side of the jig. Of course both boxes were fairly small so I could do that. I suppose with a really long box it wouldn't work.

I have replaced the backing boards with home made ones, not those Roger sells, when they were getting a bit worn. It's simple to do but if the MDF isn't exactly the same thickness as the board you are removing, it throws out the adjustment on the size of the pins and consequently, the tightness of the joint.

In that case, you need to reset your jig by removing or adding shims, depending on whether your new backing boards are thicker or thinner.

I have had some slight tearout when the backing board wasn't supporting the timber all the way, just as you mentioned in your post. That's why I made new ones.

I think the simple solution is to use the boards you have but make a new set for each template using boards cut from the same piece of mdf or craftwood. That way, you can change backing boards as you need to, without needing to reset the shimms each time.

Another alternative is to make only one set as you need them, do some test cuts, work out how many shims need to be added or removed for that board and write it on them. I had a set with +3 on the back, meaning I had to add 3 shims if I wanted to use that board.

Thanks David and Gumby. David, that is probably the easiest to do for now but I think I want to make dedicated backers eventually. Gumby, you are right, the mdf here I belive is exactly half inch where the backers in the jig are 7/16 ...just a shade under. I assume those screws go into a threaded hole on the jig so you won't wear out the hole changing the backers? Thanks guys!

Corey

Originally Posted by Boxinator

I assume those screws go into a threaded hole on the jig so you won't wear out the hole changing the backers? Thanks guys!

Corey

You assume correctly. When you make new boards, use the old ones as templates and you can't go wrong.

Also be aware that you don't need to move the stop block when changing shims. So you can do it mid-job.

Thank you sir!

Corey

No problems. The fee for advice is for you to post your first box in the Pics section.

You can count on that Gumby

Corey

You don't need different backing boards for different thickness timber.

You only need to replace the backing board when it gets a bit worn or damaged.

One backing board does different thickness boards, until you get your bits sharpened, then you'll need to do tests for the appropriate amount of shims.