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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
    Age
    82
    Posts
    4,650

    Default

    To reduce the effect of glued-down template "walking," I first cut along the line with a utility or craft knife, then use the scribed line as my target - sort of a "stopping" cut. A jeweler's magnifying glass ("loupe") is a handy accessory.

    When filing soft metals, it's OK to use back-and-forth motion, because the back stroke helps to clean the gullets. In hard metals, such motion can destroy the file. Same with hack saws.

    I doubt you can achieve a satisfactory top surface by casting metal in the recesses. Also, cooling shrinkage will draw the metal away from the edges of the recess, for an imperfect fit.

    Polishing the top surface flush in the recess is inadvisable. The polishing compound will almost always stain the wood. Better to polish the metal separately.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Thanks for all the replies and the various methods suggested,
    The top plate will have to be hand finished brass from a template, that's the easy one, in a relative way.
    The key escutcheon will be another matter. I think they may have been a selective ( shop manufactured ) cast item, available at the time in a few different styles.
    Cutting this out of solid, accurately, and keeping the thickness even all the way around a less than easy shape wil be tricky for me.
    My hand skills and esperience might not quite be there.
    However, I'm prepared to have a try, once i fid suitable material.

    The box is worth the effort.

    I'll try and post some pictures tomorow. Today has been hectic enough.


    cheers
    Richard
    Cheers

    Richard

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Nowra
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Hi jackafrica
    Why not try Mother of Pearl for the estachion plate?
    Also for the name plate I'd suggest engravers brass as it cuts easy and does not tarnish much.
    Both are easy to obtain and work.
    Also to make a template photo copy the item on a scanner and go from there.
    Good luck BobT
    Don't argue with idiots, they only drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    52

    Default Details of the Box

    Finally i've taken images of the box, which was used by Homeopathic Chemists as a traveling part of their kit.

    To the right of the lock is a brass pin, which when removed allows access to the lower slide out drawer.

    The indexed screws on the lid add a nice touch of quality. This though is let down a little by the witness lines for the dovetails, which shouldn't be visible.
    However, when it it is all said and done, this was a working box, used many times a day during the course of the Chemists work.

    This is the only one I've seen which has the dividers for the drawers and even a few of the bottles.

    The condition of the box is pretty much as shown. There is actually more work than initially thought, though for someone with skills, the result would be a beautiful thing.

    Truth be known it will be some time before I get around to the repairs, I have more interest in metals...a Hercus 260 lathe.

    My other chemists box is significantly smaller than this one. This particular box measures 205mm long x 150mm deep x 140mm high.


    Hope you like the pics.

    cheers
    Richard

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Avoca Victoria
    Age
    81
    Posts
    10,501

    Default

    Yummmm!

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