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27th May 2013, 03:52 AM #1Novice
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Resawing and thicknessing timber for box making
Hey guys,
Iv been thinking about making some wooden display boxes for a while now and was wanting some advice on the best way to resaw and plane the timber down nice and flat (tas oak). I have a carbatec 10 inch bandsaw which i'm going to make a decent rip fence for but what i really need to know is what tool would be the best to clean the boards up once they have been resawn, preferably to the same thickness. I don't have much money or space so I need to be careful with what i buy. Would i be better off getting a thicknesser, i know jet make a small one for about 430 bucks, Or do you think i can get away with a homemade drum sander? I don't have one yet but i'm considering making one with a raisable table. I'm interested in what you think or if you have any other ideas as to what i should do.
thanks guys
woodwormer
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27th May 2013, 03:52 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2004
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- Perth WA
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Save your pennies and buy a decent 15" thicknesser with a helical cutting head and you'll never look back
Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture
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27th May 2013, 04:58 PM #3
I use a lot of new floorboards about 12mm thick and I use a homemade thickness sander to remove the grooves in the back of the boards. Very cheap to build and worth it's weight in gold! I have a cheap thicknesser which I occasionally use but snipe wastes too much wood. Build the sander first then go on from there with expensive thicknessers etc.
Terry
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27th May 2013, 05:01 PM #4Novice
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- Aug 2004
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- Hobart
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- 17
Terry, would be interested to see how you constructed your thickness sander!
Andy
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27th May 2013, 07:10 PM #5
I use a wide drum sander, (AKA thickness sander), to clean up my resawed timber. Works fine and is quieter than a jointer or planer/thicknesser. 80G to thickness, then 120G followed by 240G. Almost no sanding needed after that.
It is slower than a thicknesser, though, and needs good dust extraction.
Edit: Mine's a factory-made one, so no point in showing it. I'd like to see Terry's too, though, out of interest.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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27th May 2013, 07:58 PM #6
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28th May 2013, 04:45 AM #7Novice
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- Aug 2011
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- melbourne
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- 23
I hadn't thought of using floorboards Terry that's not such a bad idea. I would also be interested in seeing how you built your sander so i can get some more ideas.
thanks
Woodwormer
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28th May 2013, 04:04 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Location
- Gippsland Victoria
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- 706
Sander Plans
Hello,
I have built this one. Am quite chuffed with it.
Pat Hawley's thickness sander
Link to plans at bottom of page.
If you've never been to that web site before its well worth a look around at what other people have built and what plans are available - I think quite a lot of people have built the sander and the bandsaw from these plans.
Bill
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29th May 2013, 05:34 AM #9
You gonna build your own sander? Sounds great.
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29th May 2013, 11:28 AM #10
There have been a number of threads on building a drum sander.
Here's one:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/an...-build-166500/
And these two threads go together to make up another drum sander build. It's the same one built by steamingbill: -
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/pulleys-163071/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f40/my...sander-164659/... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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30th May 2013, 02:37 AM #11
I would love to post photos of my drum thickness sander but none of my photos show the completed job. Go to Mathias Wandell's website Woodworking for engineers and there are a number of home built units to look at. Most are very similar to the one I built using advice etc from a number of units that I saw among them Pat Hawleys one.
Mine cost about $150 as I had to buy the motor, pulley and belt and the 1 inch bar to hold the series of MDF discs. I also had to purchase the wide velcro. The most expensive would be the bearings and fortunatly I had them on the shelf.
Go for it, you won't be dissapointed.
Terry
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30th May 2013, 04:02 AM #12
I'm gonna chuck another vote in for the sander.
I dunno if it does a better job than jointing/thicknessing or not, but a sander should be able to get you nice and close if you want to match the grain around the mitred corners of a box...which can look pretty darn good if you get it spot on. Probably more so with something a little more figured that Tassie Oak.Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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30th May 2013, 02:08 PM #13Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 89
Before you spend a lot of money on a thicknesser to make a few boxes, why not try using a good hand plane? (You will need a decent plane anyway to fine tune the corners if they are going to be mitered.)
Cut your pieces close to the desired thickness, scribe the desired thickness on both sides and then manually plane them down to the scribes lines. It's quiet, doesn't make any dust and doesn't take very long.
It might be easier to cut them near to the desired thickness on the tablesaw using a thin blade - you will get a more consistent thickness unless you are a wizz with the bandsaw.
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30th May 2013, 02:25 PM #14
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1st June 2013, 11:16 PM #15Retired
- Join Date
- May 2012
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- Canberra
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- 1,820
That drum sander is awesome! I HAVE to build it
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