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  1. #16
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    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    With.

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  3. #17
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    May 2011
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    Albury
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    With.

  4. #18
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    With the banding it is then. Managed to do the sides today. It was a bit of a mission to get the top and bottom pieces to align but it worked out in the end.

  5. #19
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    Remind me never to do veneer on curved surfaces.

    It's not perfect but it's done. I ended up glueing the front flat side. When it was dry I then glued the front curve and the top, and when that dried the back curve. A few cracked veneers later, some colourful words and a bucket load of determination it's done, for now.

    Apart from a few flaws which is hardly noticeable it didn't come out too bad considering.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    312

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    And the photos.

  7. #21
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    312

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    Next step is the banding. I did contemplate glueing the middle part of the veneer, then the bands, then the outside edges but glad I decided against it. This should be straight forward inlays (he said hopingly) [emoji848]

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
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    3,019

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    You just knew that exercise equipment would come in for something handy if you kept it long enough.
    Looking good.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    4,355

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    Quote Originally Posted by botesmj1 View Post
    Remind me never to do veneer on curved surfaces.

    It's not perfect but it's done. I ended up glueing the front flat side. When it was dry I then glued the front curve and the top, and when that dried the back curve. A few cracked veneers later, some colourful words and a bucket load of determination it's done, for now.

    Apart from a few flaws which is hardly noticeable it didn't come out too bad considering.
    Its looking good . Nice Walnut you have too .

    You realize you chose the hard way in laying the veneer with the grain direction that way.
    Most like yours originally are done the other way and the the veneer grain runs left to right .
    With hide glue and hammer and the veneer prepared correctly, the veneer just about falls around the edge . No clamps needed.

    Hide glue is being sold again now on this site BTW.

    Yes though it could have been worse. Well done . Colourful words ha ha , I bet there were .

    Its under an end finish that any bad faults will show . Like loose bubbles . Or undulating sections . You rub and tap with a finger to find and locate parts not stuck down by listening, and then fix if you want to . They stand out to the ear but not the eye. The more shine in the end finish the more the faults will show.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    312

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    Thanks for the advice Rob. Any tips for getting that aged, yellow/orange look on the finish? I dont want it to be shiny new walnut.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by botesmj1 View Post
    Thanks for the advice Rob. Any tips for getting that aged, yellow/orange look on the finish? I dont want it to be shiny new walnut.
    Walnut oxidizes and goes towards that colour reasonably quickly the more light it gets. A couple of years after its made and there can be a big difference.

    If you want to get it something like that straight off though its a bleach job then a colour and ageing process as the polish work progresses. And each part of that is a balancing act that can easy go off track. Its the sort of thing you have to practice and be prepared to do a few times . And only works its best using shellac and french polishing as the process. One fast way of starting a good look is giving a thin light wash over with a thin warm colour .
    I use Bismarck brown for that . Other similar colours you may see on a shelf of stains in tins at a paint shop could do a similar thing .

    See the colour in the top clear section of that bottle in the link .

    https://www.amazon.com/Bismarck-Brow.../dp/B07JMFHNQX

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    312

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    I managed to do the inlay banding strips this weekend. First step was to rout out the grooves. I used my Dremel with the Veritas Dremel base and fence guide which made it quite easy and accurate.




    The glue up went without any issues as well. I was a bit concerned that the green tape will pull out the intricate veneer pieces but it went ok. I used my 1mm kerf razor saw to split the edging between the lid and box once it was dry.








    And finally I tinted the box and strips with Briwax
    antique brown timber dye and gave it a few coats of Briwax Shellac sanding sealer to fill the walnut grain.






    I will either recess the old key escutcheon that came off the original box or alternatively make new one. As for the inlay that was on the lid I think I will leave that off.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Leopold, Victoria
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    65
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    4,677

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    That certainly looks impressive now with the finish on it. Turned out really good.
    Dallas

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    That certainly looks impressive now with the finish on it. Turned out really good.
    Thanks Dallas, that’s just the shellac sanding sealer. I will finish the entire box once the insides are done as well.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Cudgen NSW
    Posts
    103

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    Wheres the sawdust? You will never find anything now. I love all the draws under the bench, be full of surprizes I bet.
    [/SIGPIC]Pigs a#@*.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    6,974

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    That’s certainly come up the goods, a great learning curve, and I’ve certainly enjoyed the story.

    Cheers Matt.

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