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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Central Mangrove
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    Default Routing the feet

    I am having trouble with the wood splitting when routing the feet on my boxes, any ideas?
    Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Albury
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    Default

    Have you got any pictures of the profile you're trying to do? I guess you're using a table? Splitting generally happens at the end of the cut, although depending on the stock, how big a cut you're taking and the grain orientation it can occur earlier in the cut. If happening at the end of the cut setting up a stop and climb cutting the end first will help.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    1,557

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    I think I know what you mean. What you need to do is turn it around when you get past half way then flip over and come back to meet in the middle to prevent tearout.

    I had the same problem with this box

    5F770A36-88A6-4AEC-9ED9-47D87B9558BB.jpg

    It worked well well but once it got to the foot at the other end the grain didn’t like it. So I learnt to go half way or just over half then flip it over and do the same again so that it didn’t tear out. Also I did small cuts to ensure I minimised the tear out.

    Please tell me if I’m wrong.

  5. #4
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    Sep 2011
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    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Hi Clarky, I use the same technique as Fumbler described. You only need a stop at one end. Col at Gifkin showed me this trick. I also bought the router bit from him that he uses solely for this cut, but I gotta say its a big one. I allow 6mm from the bottom of my box and router in 3mm. That leaves 3mm of timber under the base. I also go in very slowly with my router, but if I am using say Tassie Blackwood it can still take a chunk out at any old time when you least expect it. Then you have a repair job on your hands. Whereas other timbers rout beautifully.

    Paul

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Central Mangrove
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls321 View Post
    Hi Clarky, I use the same technique as Fumbler described. You only need a stop at one end. Col at Gifkin showed me this trick. I also bought the router bit from him that he uses solely for this cut, but I gotta say its a big one. I allow 6mm from the bottom of my box and router in 3mm. That leaves 3mm of timber under the base. I also go in very slowly with my router, but if I am using say Tassie Blackwood it can still take a chunk out at any old time when you least expect it. Then you have a repair job on your hands. Whereas other timbers rout beautifully.

    Paul
    Thanks, I do use stops and am only taking about 2mm at a time. I am using a large straight bit. I am using Blackwood however, so that may be the problem. I will put a photo up when I get chance.
    Thanks for the help.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Paynesville victoria
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    73
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    172

    Default

    Beautiful work,can you tell me about the inlay, thanks Ian

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Central Mangrove
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    Default

    Yes a lovely box, well done

  9. #8
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    Which bit is it? Is it a straight edge bit? I have the bits from Col as well.

  10. #9
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    Sep 2011
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    Valla Beach
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    Hi Clarky, have the bit in front of me now. Its called a Wood Cut Spiral Flute TSRW 12 - 1/2 inch solid carbide. A very chunky bit. From memory I think I paid around the $140 mark from Col for this. He said thats all he uses it for, just for routering for the legs.

    Paul

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