Thread: short screws?

My preference order would be 1: Buy shorter screws, 2: cutting those screws, then 3: gluing hinge onto lid (doubt it would be strong enough)

If you can't find short enough screws of that style in your local stores you should be able to source some online if you're willing to wait for them to be posted.
Cheers.

As the next size down screw may not have enough purchase to hold the lid in an open position I would shorten the screws and fit them into carefully predrilled holes with maybe a touch of PVA glue in the hole to reinforce the timber.

I normally grind the tip of the screws down to the required length, after having predrilled and cut the opening threads with the screw.

Depending on the strength of the timber, you might find it helpful to glue short hardwood dowels in the the lid for the screws.

Wow, thanks for those quick replies. So if I go with the grinding down of the existing screw, how long would you aim to get down to, or is it just a matter of how long would you dare to go?

The right way to attach the hinges is simple.
Buy the correct screws and you can get them here https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop...-100pcs-detail
The Brusso hinge is a fine product and deserves the right screws.

Thanks, Ruddy, that's where I got the hinges. So the screws that came with the hinges are a smidge over 2mm diameter which Google tells me equals 2 gauge.

In 2 gauge I can get 6mm or 10mm long screws, and 10mm are too long as there is only 7.65mm of timber under the mortice. I've done a quick check and a 6mm screw will protrude 4.75mm into the timber. Would that be okay?

If the thickness of the timber is 10mm when the hinge is fitted then you should be able to use the 3/8" long screws. Dont forget the hinges are about 1 mm thick.If need be, you may have to take about 0.5mm max off the screw length and do not forget to head the screws when you tighten them.

Looking at the Brusso specifications the brass hinge plates are over 2mm thick so you should be able to use 3/8" brass screws. Make sure you mortice the base and lid correctly to that depth and dont forget to head the screws when you tighten them.

Thanks, Ruddy. I must admit I'm thinking I might grind down the existing screws, just because I've got them. I understand your point about using the right screw, but it costs around $15.00 for a pack of 100 plus freight would be around $25.00. then I have to wait a while for them to arrive.

Next time I'm in the shed I'll do a trial in my scrap piece and see how it goes.

Oh, and what does "head the screw" mean?

Make sure when you tighten the screws you have all the slots pointing in the same direction as the grain.

Make sure when you tighten the screws you have all the slots pointing in the same direction as the grain.

Not sure about this, Ruddy, especially if you have to turn the screw further in the hole without it being able to go any deeper. To my mind that will just ruin the thread cut in the timber by the screw.

Originally Posted by 3 toed sloth

Thanks, Ruddy, that's where I got the hinges. So the screws that came with the hinges are a smidge over 2mm diameter which Google tells me equals 2 gauge.

In 2 gauge I can get 6mm or 10mm long screws, and 10mm are too long as there is only 7.65mm of timber under the mortice. I've done a quick check and a 6mm screw will protrude 4.75mm into the timber. Would that be okay?

I think the answer is "probably not"

By my reconing you will need to grind 3.5 to 4mm off the end of the screw which in practical terms means removing around 50% of the screw's holding length. In time I would anticipate that the hinge will pull off the lid. A 6mm 2ga screw may have a slightly longer holding length than a ground down 3/8" screw, but will still have a tendency to pull out. I think your best option will be to glue the hinge in place, possibly using polyurethane or CA glue in the shortened screw hole.


Lastly, when you do your trial mounting use steel screws to cut the threads in the timber.

As Ian says, but my method is to shorten the screw to 2mm shorter than the total width of the lid, then predrill the hole (carefully!), a spot of CA down said hole, insert screw. It will not move.

Do CA bit once everything is perfect.

Thanks Ian and Woodpixel, I agree about stopping the screw length 2mm shorter than lid thickness, anything more is just too risky. As Ian points out, once I remove 4mm from the screw there's not a lot of thread left as half the remaining screw would just be the shank.

The screws supplied by Brusso included a steel screw for pre cutting threads, which is very convenient.