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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Edgeworth NSW
    Posts
    3

    Default Silky Oak's hungry pores

    Some silky oak pieces for my boxmaking have pores due to cranky grain being pulled out during thicknessing
    I’ve sealed these pieces with 2 sealing coats of metho 8 : 1 metho / Hard Shellac
    Then when 4 brushed coats of 1 : 3 metho / Hard Shellac seemed to fill the pores I hand sanded back with 220 & 320 grit
    However when I repeated the above sealing and finishing coats the pores still needed filling
    I’ve also tried a stiff slurry Timbermate between sealing and finishing coats, carefully circularly rubbed in with a piece of T'shirt and diagonally scraped off with a credit card without success
    I'm appreciate that the problem is probably not due to the Hard Shellac or Timbermate
    and I'm hoping for suggestions for improving my technique

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,191

    Default

    Hi Barry,

    I don't own a thicknesser, if I did I think my neighbours might throw rocks at me. I do all my thicknessing down on my De Walt table saw, can thickness up to 150mm of timber by doing it twice, 75mm each time. Then I dress it to the required thickness on my home made drum sander. I did make a nice silky oak box recently, I found that for the final sand, I use my Triton ROS, working up to 800 grit. Then a couple of coats of my home made Danish oil, second coat cut in with 1200 W&D, (wet), then a couple of coats of buffed wax, gave me a very nice finish on the silky oak.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,039

    Default

    Hi Barry and welcome to the forum. Sounds to me like you only have three options with this and depending on how bad the tear out is you may have to use multiple applications of 1. or 2. to get an acceptable result.

    1. Grain filling sanding sealer - These are primarily for filling the pores of open grained timber rather than tear out. Try not to slap it on too thickly or you'll be lining up a lot of sanding for yourself. Shellac makes a great sending sealer but has almost no grain filling capability.

    2. Use the diluted shellac, but add a small amount of pure talc to the mix to give it better gran filling capability.

    3. Sand the surface back until the tearout has been eliminated. Sorry about that, I hate sanding too!

    Only you can decide on the route you take with this but I hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    David

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    Depending on how bad the tearout is, you may be able to hide it using cabinetmakers' wax sticks.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Hi Barry

    I think your first step is to look at your thicknessing technique to try and avoid tear-out at the start.
    Are the blades on the thicknesser really sharp?
    Can you make the final few thicknessing passes with a well tuned and sharp hand plane? or drum sander ?

    Then I think your first few coats of shellac are too diluted for the amount of pore filling required.
    and I concur with Aldav's suggestion to add talc to your finish till teh pores are filed.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Edgeworth NSW
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Many thanks for each of your kind responses
    Like all woodworking 'character building' challenges it will seem so simple when I win - Like learning to ride a bike!
    I'll get to work on some more test pieces taking on board all your kind suggestions
    All the Best, Barry

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