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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
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    937

    Default Simple blackwood and sheoak box

    This is my most serious attempt at box construction after a few dabblings. Mitred joints have always been a problem for me and the ones in this box are still not perfect but thanks to the shooting plane I made for the plane challenge they turned out better and took less effort than previous attempts. They look good from the top but in a couple of places they have a small gap when viewed from the outside. This may be due to knocking them between planing and assembly or it may be that the edges are not supported well enough by the shooting board. Any tips on this are welcome.
    Pic 1 reduced.jpg Box glue up.jpg Location frame glue up.jpg

    As part of trying to minimize the use of power tools I made a couple of new planes for specific parts. One was for making the grooves to fit the base and the other was for smoothing the laminated lid panel.
    Finished 2 resized.jpg Groove plane.jpg

    Finish is Ubeaut white shellac and traditional wax. The only problem with this is that the shine makes photography difficult .

    Box finished.jpg Lid 2.jpg Box and lid 2.jpg Box and lid 1.jpgLid 1.jpg
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,186

    Default

    Nice looking box there Bob, those mitre joints look pretty good to me. I always find getting nice clean fitting mitre joints is very difficult, hence I only use them when I really have to, which isn't often.

    Great job,

    Paul

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Cudgen NSW
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Looks very good Bob. My most used joint is keyed mitred. The shooting board is a must, if there is a slight gap I use a round burnishing rod to push the seam closed or glur & sawdust rubbed into the seam before final sanding. i am currently trying the sawdust & gel CA glue us a filler & fibre strengthener it's working very well for me. wipe on poly seals without darkening the timber.
    [/SIGPIC]Pigs a#@*.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
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    937

    Default

    Thanks for those tips RGP. I had heard of pushing the points together but using a burnisher is new to me.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,068

    Default

    Hi Labr@,

    I used to have the same problem with mitres but now use a method taught to me by boxmaker Andrew Crawford in the UK (www.fine-boxes.com)

    A very simple 45 degree fence/jig on my disc sander trues up mitres perfectly:

    8A766C1C-2666-47B6-A5BA-ACE606FDC5CE.jpeg

    My sander is only 300mm (12 inches) but easily handles all my box work. Using this technique you can cut the mitres using any method then finish off on the sander.

    As an aside, Andrew has a monster 3 phase double-sided 24 inch beast he nicknamed “Frank Zappa” (the manufacturer was FZ machinery):

    2C6400E6-D7E6-41B3-A575-C8F3A6136C7A.jpeg


    Best regards,

    Brian

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    Homey, that's the way we were taught at Sturt, on the monster disc sander there, 30" dia. from memory.

    I've done a set of step by step photos, if I can dig them out I'll put them up as a separate thread.

    My then 10yo granddaughter used the method to make this box.

    IMG_1939.jpg
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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
    Posts
    937

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    if I can dig them out I'll put them up as a separate thread.
    Thanks Alex, that could be mighty helpful.
    Looks like the gd inherited a good amount of talent.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

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