Thread: started a laminated box with diagonal strips

Looks like an interesting project.

Can't wait to see more of it, please do post it here!

Corey

This looks like another great box making lesson in profress and I anxiously await more on the project. Please do keep us updated and thanks much.

Got a dry day here in the UK so going out to the workshop because yesterday it would have entailed a swim to have got out there.

3rd session today on box.

I have the panel glued up and cut the first length off for a front & side on the bandsaw, (look at the sun )



The first piece (front) is put on my shooting board and locked up with pieces of batten to stop any movement caused by grab.



A side piece is being shewn because the bandsaw is inclined to give a ragged edge so I have touched each side of the timber with the bandsaw and then used those marks to make a scored line on both sides, this did stop and break back on cut.



(these days I have got my old bandsaw tuned to cut accurately and it definately comes down to blade quality.

I have got all the pieces cut to size and edges cleaned up on the shooting board or beltsander.
However facing surfaces would not clean up nicely, the wood grains do not run in a consistant direction so I am having to use an orbital sander.



The 4 pieces have now been surfaced and I am thinking I shall do half but joins again ( There is a lot of break off on timber edges to try any other corner joins)
A spline or biscuit would make box too wide for remaining timber for lid unless I have a plain top. Might be a good idea because it might be too busy with diagonals on top lid as well. Whats the verdict?

Looks good John.

I am not sure what would happen if the timber moves It is relatively small so any dimensional changes won't be large.

Glad to see you are flooded out in your shed at the moment.

John,

That is a very complex process and looks like you have it going your way. That is going to make one beautiful box when all is said and done. I for one will continue to follow your progress. Thanks for the update.

That's pretty cool! thanks for the additional photos!

Corey

Taken the easy way out for corner joints gone for the half butt. Dovetails of anysort would have looked too busy, timber is only 10mm thick so not much meat around for biscuits or splines and mitres would have had broken edges.

So to ensure a square saw hand cut I knocked up this idea, more timber out of the scrapbox (and one piece must have been part of a roof at one time looking at the nail plate pattern). Simple but it worked for me.





Pleased to say the timber settled down from the extreme heat in the workshop yesterday, and returned to its original condition. However I think making up a board like this must be an unstable method if climate conditions can so easily upset its stability. (all of the timber has been around my workshop over 4 years and some I know was used for my window frames over 20 years ago, (sapele)

When I spotted the first post, I'd assumed that the diagonals were going to be floating panels and I thought "Cool! They'll look great in a dark timber frame!" (Actually, I thought Jarrah or Blood Gum, but I wouldn't imagine they'd be easy to come by over there...)

Now I see you're basically butt joining 'em? Now you've really piqued my curiosity! It's going to be interesting to see how you overcome any movement issues... and how well the boards match. It should make for a striking box, whatever way you go.

Question: the little tenon saw in the photo, I gather it's a dozuki? If so, how do you think it compares to a western saw? Or have you refitted a western tenon with a japanese handle? (Don't laugh... I've seen it done! )

Coming along nicely.

Question: the little tenon saw in the photo, I gather it's a dozuki? If so, how do you think it compares to a western saw?

I must confess I love them (dozukis etc.). Admit you have to be very careful when using them that you dont touch any other part of the timber surface otherwise you have a new cut line , they are so sharp. These days I cant think where I could get a western saw resharpened, tried it myself once or twice in the past so living with these throwaway saws for the forseeable future.
Time will tell if the corner joints last out, modern glues seem very good though, using titebond 3 this time, I like it setting time, 30 minutes.

By the way it was AlexS who introduced me to dozukis (3 years ago).

Glued the box up last evening and got it out this morning.





The ends will be cleaned up later today but all is not well with regard to having a lid.
Laying a straight edge on long front and rear panels there is bowing, so a drop in lid (my usual) would not be practical, might have to go for a drop over lid Unless anyone as any suggestions.

Cleaned up the box ends this morning and the joints have turned out quite satisfactory.





However there is bowing along the long sides of box so I am going to do a drop on lid. The timber for this will be a lid frame plus a panel with veneers using this mahogany type batten. (dont know where it came from )





However I have now had my first kick back on a table saw (5 years) and I am glad it was on a triton because with the triton fence on the left hand side of the blade the kickback sailed past me at mark 1 or 2 and I never want another one. I can tell you there is no way you can jump out of the way(even the best slip fielder (cricket) in the world would never catch this object going through.
A photo showing the reason for the kickback, I wanted an 8mm moulding and the blade guard does not cover the blade because of the fence position.

photo taken at rear end of saw table.


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Next job to prepare the lid frame on the router table .