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Thread: Suggestions for glue clean up
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23rd October 2016, 01:00 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Suggestions for glue clean up
Hi folks,
I've made a complete mess of gluing the top and bottom of a box - just separated them today and can see there's way more glue scattered around the inside than I really want to be sanding down, particularly with it all being in the corners and a pain to get to.
It's epoxy (araldite specifically) - any easy way to clean it up? I tried hitting it with some acetone and a cloth - it did remove some but it'll be a slow job getting rid of the whole lot!
I've been meaning to buy a small chisel plane anyway, so that might be the next step unless there is a better way?
Cheers,
Danny
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23rd October 2016 01:00 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd October 2016, 02:58 PM #2
Before glueup, I line the inside edges with blue painters tape. After separating the lid run a scalpel along the corners and it all peels right off.
With your job? Id just run a flat chisel down the inside after scoring it in the very corner with a scalpel (Eckersleys $4)
DSC00184 (1024x685).jpg
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23rd October 2016, 03:23 PM #3
Why are you using araldite to glue boxes?
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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23rd October 2016, 03:31 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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epoxy which was left to dry on the surface of timber doesn't stick very good unless the timber was very course grained. So a chisel will be able to pick big flakes of the epoxy off the surface fairly easily. Then use a chisel to clean the corners. If you had of finished the inside of the box first with just about anything, the epoxy doesn't stick at all.
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23rd October 2016, 05:52 PM #5
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23rd October 2016, 06:01 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks all! That sounds like my best going to be some careful chisel and scalpel work. I screwed it up in the first place because I normally rebate the top and bottom of boxes before glue up, but for this one I decided (in hindsight, stupidly!) to just do a butt joint for the top and bottom, and didn't think about how much glue would get smeared around as I aligned and clamped everything...
Must remember to prep more carefully next time.
Using araldite because the top and bottom are blackwood and I have had really bad green stain issues with PVA with this particular piece of blackwood - worse than other bits. The only glues I had around that weren't PVA were the epoxy and the polyurethane - ironically I decided against the poly to avoid having to clean up the mess!
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23rd October 2016, 07:16 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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I only get green staining from titebond II and III. Titebond original has never gone green on me with blackwood. The green stain does plane/sand out, but you need to remove a bit of material which isnt appropriate for a box.
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23rd October 2016, 08:11 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Ah! That's interesting, I might have to get some tite bond I and give it a try, I normally only keep 2 and 3 in the shop.
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23rd October 2016, 10:37 PM #9
Yep, Kuffy is right. On the picture above, the sides are blackwood. TB1 plays nicely.
This one below the BW was from a member (Clive Oldfield). It is just a sample box that now sits gathering dust.
DSC00207.jpg
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31st October 2016, 11:26 AM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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I was buying a smoothing plane from the folks at fine tools anyway, so I added a chisel plane to that purchase - a combination of chisel and chisel plane work cleaned up the epoxy OK, enough to try installing some lining for the first time- it's good enough for my own use at least!
The best part of this thread though was to use TB1 with blackwood - I love blackwood and just did the joinery for another box successfully with TB1 and no green stain to be seen! So thank you to Kuffy and woodPixel .
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8th November 2016, 08:29 AM #11Hewer of wood
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A cabinet scraper may be a cheap way out. Coarse burr on one side for glue removal, fine on the other to finish.
Cheers, Ern
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8th November 2016, 10:48 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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I would be using a PVA wood glue.
When I make a glue joint, I always immediately wipe the excess with a damp cloth before it dries. You can eliminate the problem before it really exists this way. Whatever's left over is scraper work. If it's in a tight corner, do the best you can and then use a chisel, either shearing it or scraping, to get the rest.
There's always tape, but that's time consuming and potentially expensive. That blue, painter tape isn't cheap.
Cheers,
Luke
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8th November 2016, 05:42 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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This is what it ended up looking like - this was the first real box off a new incra i-box, so it's a bit crappy in some respects. Also the first time I've tried installing lining rather than flocking, and I still need to sand back some of the wipe on poly on the top and re-finish, so don't judge me too harshly!
Immediately after this I went to spotlight and got some supplies to install lining via some heavy card instead of straight to the base, should've done it beforehand!
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8th November 2016, 06:50 PM #14
Its very sturdy
It would be quite cool to round over all the edges and corners, even the insides. I like the dimensions, but it looks so "heavy". Rounding the fingers would add mystique to it.
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8th November 2016, 07:17 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Yeah, I thought about the concepts of delicacy and elegance and decided I wanted nothing to do with them!
Rounded corners is an interesting idea for this one, it would certainly make it a bit more exciting! Will have to think about whether I want to work on it a bit more or just call it an imperfect box and use it somewhere myself.
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