Thread: Suitable table saw for box making

Hi Tiger

I went down similar path as you

started with triton, upgraded to Carbatec Contractor Saw.. at least thats what I've thought...
So the Triton saw...
pros
portable, easy to use.. and considering its capabilities good value for money
cons
takes ages to align... not very precise.. limited in features.. addons expensive

Carbatec Contractor Saw
One of the cheapest in table saws...

Pros
big step up comparing to triton.. quieter than triton.. can cut at 45 deg
cons
blade guard is a joke, fence is a bit too flimsy...

In saying that... Carbatec Contractor Saw failed me primarily when I was ripping 2400 x 1200 ply sheets.. The fence just could not hold its place if I nudged it with the sheet.. but again... 2400 x 1200 sheet without proper support.. yeah was asking for it...
for your use.. since you will be cutting smaller pieces.. it should do the job..

In order to make it do what I want I had to invest in some upgrades

1) Incra mitre fence (highly recommended especially for mitre cuts)
2) Digital tablesaw readout... to replace very rough measuring tape... able to set the length to tenth of a mm.. (or inches ... )
3) Upgraded the fence... (due to the ply sheet issue above mentioned)
4) replaced the blade guard... the original is very flimsy.. and on one occasion it came in touch with the blade and pretty much exploded...

some of those upgrades are a bit pricey but my issue is that I can only get 10Amp machinery (power issues in the shed) so bigger (read better) table saws are out of question for me...

back to your question...
triton... very fiddly and working mitre joins to be perfect requires lots of trials

Carbatec Contractor Saw with incra mitre fence would do just fine... just make sure you dont move table saw... another issue with it... as the motor is pretty much free hanging at the back, moving the saw around will cause slight miss alignment of the blade.. (talking 0.01 - 0.05 mm) in my case.. which for most of the cutting doesn't really matter but might slightly affect the precision of your mitre join..

Hope this was helpful...

Mighty helpful pardner, thanks Prle. What did those upgrades cost you? I find the triton pretty accurate but I spent a bit of time getting it right but it's a little limited for box making in particular. Whereabouts in Melbourne are you?

Hi Tiger

a 9 year old thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/gifkins-scms-cutting-jig-30971 but it does show an alternative using a sliding compound mitre saw and fence/table combination.
Roger Gifkins designed it specially for box making

'Tis my intention to make some good quality boxes along the lines of Art Deco designs.

My Jet saw is pretty reasonable but I think when it comes to really fine work then I will have a problem .
I need to do some very accurate measuring to see just exactly how accurate the alignment of my fence is.

I don't have an SCMS and am not likely to ever own one so I thought that judicious use of the router might
be the best way to go. I recently built a cupboard and had a slight alignment problem that I was able to
overcome with the router.

Perhaps you could consider the use of a router.

Heya Tiger
I'm in Edithvale

now for the pricing..
I'll give you current prices.. all stuff was bought from either Carbatec or Woodwork supplies
1) Incra mitre fence (Incra 1000HD ) I paid $270 at the time , not you can get it for $240 (carbatec)
2) Digital tablesaw readout... $225 (woodwork supplies)
3) Upgraded the fence... heavy duty fence $370 (Carbatec)
4) the blade guard ... Ok.. this one is actually blade fence for Jet table saw... had to chop about 10mm off the bottom of the riving knife... that was the only modification and it fits perfectly... that thing set be back about $250 but since I love my fingers.. its worth the $$$.. ANd for that amount at least I get modular design, where I can easy remove parts of it without the need to unscrew the whole thing off (again Carbatec)...

As you can see.. the upgrades have costed me pretty much more than the table saw.. but I sort of have no choice.. (power issues)
and with those upgrades saw now works the same as any $2500 - $3000 table saw while still working on the 10 Amp circuit....

Hi Tiger

Strictly speaking you don't need to upgrade your Triton to a tablesaw.

There are a number of designs for long and cross grain shooting boards that enable you to get very close to final size with the Triton and then trim to the exact width and length required with a hand plane. Some of the shooting board designs allow you to make multiple parts all the same width or length.

Thanks guys for your thoughts, nice jig Ian, I have a Ryobi scms which lacks a little accuracy. Tried the router and shooting boards, I plan on making a number of boxes so table saw was what I considered easiest for multiple parts. Ian do you have any links for shooting boards that can do multiple parts? That sounds interesting. Prle I too am restricted to 10 amp, it sounds like you've got a setup there that can do some very accurate work and safely too, I wonder how it all stacks up against the jet saw.

Originally Posted by Tiger

Thanks guys for your thoughts, nice jig Ian, I have a Ryobi scms which lacks a little accuracy. Tried the router and shooting boards, I plan on making a number of boxes so table saw was what I considered easiest for multiple parts. Ian do you have any links for shooting boards that can do multiple parts? That sounds interesting. Prle I too am restricted to 10 amp, it sounds like you've got a setup there that can do some very accurate work and safely too, I wonder how it all stacks up against the jet saw.

Hi Tiger

give me a day or so to find and scan the article with the design -- it's in the September 2014 issue of Furniture & Cabinetmaking
There's a photo of the jig on the issue's cover

Hi Tiger, I up graded from a triton to the Woodman SB10/12 tablesaw. I'm very happy with it and a "real" tablesaw is a huge improvement on the Triton.

The big thing for me was having proper tracks either side of the blade and being able to use a sled. Also the option of lots of other jigs and accessories.

The SB 10/12 is much quieter, has a rock solid fence and runs on a 10 amp circuit.

I don't make boxes so can't comment there.

Peter

Ian looks like a very useful article, thanks. Hey Sloth, what did you pay for your saw?

I paid something just under $1600.00 a few years ago. I looked recently and it is selling here in Sydney at the moment for $1675.00. Mine has the enclosed cabinet but it also comes in an open cabinet version for a bit less money.

It also accepts a dado set which I use now and then.

If you do a search for "SB 10/12" you should find a few threads about it. When it came out a few members posted about how good value for money it is, and that is what led me to buy mine.

Thanks Sloth, looks like it's got everything I'm going to need but I'll have to sell the Triton and all the gear to finance it.

Originally Posted by ian

Hi Tiger

give me a day or so to find and scan the article with the design -- it's in the September 2014 issue of Furniture & Cabinetmaking
There's a photo of the jig on the issue's cover

Ian don't worry about scanning the article , actually have enough info from the photo to work out how to make the jig. For me what would be more useful is a jig that permits you to make the pieces the same length particularly if you use mitred edges. As everyone knows you can get the angles spot on but if one piece is even a fraction short then you get the dreaded gap.

Hi Tiger

consistent length involves the same principle whether you use a table saw or shooting board -- an accurate 90° fence (or mitre gauge or cross-cut sled) and a stop block (or off-set fence)

I can send you the article if you want it