Thread: Superglue

How deep into the wood is it going, and what sort of loads will it be subjected to? Going into end grain or face grain?

In general I would say yes; if the hole has been bored out cleanly and the pin is a good fit then the cheap $2 packs of superglue will bond the two together but you have to be VERY quick; glue in left hand, pin in right hand, drop-of-glue-then-insert-pin. All areas with end grain will suck in the glue immediately and with wood containing moisture and cellulose it will begin to set almost as soon as they contact.

For less clean holes then a slower setting gel type glue may be better.

Thanks chief.

The hole is about 4mm deep with a tight fit into face grain. I'd love to be able to give it some more meat but poor planing on the design limits this.

The total length of the pin is 16mm. It will be subject to some pressure when the key is inserted and removed. Hopefully the picture explains it better.

I've scratched up the surface with a file but so far its not grabbed well with the prior attempts.

Are there any brands you recommend from the Bunnings selection or do i med something stronger like starbond?

I would thread the rod, the wood, then glue and screw into place if just glueing in place isn’t sufficient.

Just a thought, how about an epoxy such as araldite ?

Regards
Keith

I would also say epoxy.

All glues dry out. Super glue dries, turns brittle and fails faster than any other glue. It's not a very good long term option IMHO.

+ 1 for epoxy.

Any brand of superglue, or epoxy or polyurethane will be fine; but have you already attempted to glue this with something else, like PVA or hot melt glue?

If this is a second attempt at gluing then a different approach is needed because the wood will be sealed against glue absorption. What you need to do is undercut the bottom of the hole and use a gap filling glue like epoxy to form a dovetail on the end of the rod.

Really deeply score the bottom couple of millimeters of the rod using a junior hacksaw or needle file, you want to have a definite tangential groove. Then using a Dremmel tool bell out the bottom millimeter of the hole. Now the epoxy will be forced into a shape that can’t be pulled out of the hole and also locks in the bottom of the pin.

I just used epoxy this weekend for a similar job: glueing a star-knob to a bolt. I had expected to hold it tight with a nut on the inside, but the threads didn't go up that far, and I couldn't be bothered digging out the tap and die set to cut some more thread. The first one I glued actually failed (there's a lot of torque on a star knob!) but I think I hadn't mixed the epoxy well enough. I drilled out the hole a tiny bit more to give it some space, and the second one seemed to work fine.

IMG_1217.jpgIMG_1169.jpg

Just to be contrary: drill a hole in the end grain through the hole and the rod. Then put in a pin or nail. As long as the nail is tight into the wood, a bit of PVA on the pin, and it will probably last forever.

Cheers Paul

Thanks everyone.

I think the first attempt i missed some of the steps mentioned here, plus they epoxy used was the dregs of the mini tubes.

The 2nd try with new epoxy (mixed properly this time), grooves cut into the brass, plus sides roughed up more with a file, have held this time.

If i need to repeat this again, i like the idea of tapping the brass but hopefully this won't be needed.

Onto the next part of the build!

Regards,

Adam