Thread: Talking Hinges Here

Generally hinges need to be cut for their specific type. Some barrels extend totally out of the box, some 1/2 the barrel thickness and it goes the same with the leaves. It's one of those little things that takes a lot of thought so the box isn't ruined.

However, When I can use the router table I do. But the biggest thing I do especially if I don't have the manufacturers template for the hinge, is to carefully mark the outside of the back of the box showing exactly where the hinge edges are. then I only route to within 1/16th of an inch to this line. Then use a very sharp chisel to take the rest out.

Hinges are one of those things that I try not to do fast. One slip up, and then I have to figure out a fix or repair. Another thing are the brass screws and how those go in. If you like I'll tell you the safest way but you might already know that anyway.

Here are few pics of a box I did a year ago and it's hinges.

ICN,

Bill

Originally Posted by Bwillie

snip

Hinges are one of those things that I try not to do fast. One slip up, and then I have to figure out a fix or repair. Another thing are the brass screws and how those go in. If you like I'll tell you the safest way but you might already know that anyway.

Here are few pics of a box I did a year ago and it's hinges.

ICN,

Bill

I want to know. What is the safest way?

Nice boxes

ron

What do the talking hinges say?

"Keep out, secret."

"Erhhhheeeeeehhhhh (squeeky hinge noise)"

Al

Bill, that is a beautiful box. Nice clean hinge installation. This is one area I have stayed away from up to this point as well. what is your tip for the brass screws?

Corey

Originally Posted by Bwillie

Hinges are one of those things that I try not to do fast. One slip up, and then I have to figure out a fix or repair.ICN, Bill

I couldn't agree more. (And by the way, Bwillie, that is one beautiful box. The exacting detail speaks of fine craftsmanship.)

My preference is to use a marking knife, a good square and a very sharp chisel. I think this gives one more control, and doesn't take much longer than setting up a router to do the same thing.

I scribe the outline (width/length/depth) using a Veritas Saddle Square, a Veritas marking knife (until I get Derek's) and a Veritas Wheel Gauge. I then carefully place the chisel into the lines scribed by the knife and holding the chisel at ninety degrees to the surface, with the bevel facing into the mortise, tap the outline of the mortise. Then, holding he chisel at about sixty degrees to the surface with the bevel up, using a mallet, tap a series of cuts from one end of the mortise to the other about 1mm apart. When I get close to the second end, I turn the chisel and do the last two cuts. I then carefully remove this first series of cuts with the same chisel. It usually only takes two or three rows of cuts to get very close to the depth required. Then I clean up the mortise with the chisel using it like a plane to smooth out the bottom and straighten up the sides.

I use a self centering drill bit to drill the pilot holes using the hinge as the template. I then take a steel screw the same size and thread as the brass screw and coating it with some parafin, cut the thread in the pilot hole. This does the hard work of cutting into the timber which is especially important if using our Aussie hardwoods, and lubricates the thread to reduce resistance for both the steel screw and the subsequent brass screw which I also coat with parafin wax. I've never had a brass screw failure since using this method.

Originally Posted by son_of_bluegras

I want to know. What is the safest way?

Nice boxes

ron

David and Ron...


So the brass screws don't snap off or strip the head, this is what I do (religously)

1. Tap a point in the wood to start the hole.
2. Drill to a lightly deeeper depth than the screw.
3. Use a Gimlee to thread the hole.
4. Use a darn good screwdriver (it pays to buy one good one for this job only).
5. Screw in a "stainless steel screw" with threads waxed from a candle. Then remove it.
6. Then slowly and with enough force on the screwdriver so the head doesn't strip out, screw in the brass screw precoated with a little bit of wax.

couple of tricks I have found useful is :

I use double sided tape to help align the hinges. I tape them in place and close the lid, gently open and locate exactly where they are. I use an exacto knife to scribe a fine cut in the wood using the taped down hinge as the alignment pattern.

Also the tricks discribed previously for the screws is a good start but I also prefer to use a steel screw the same size as the brass. I run them in and seat them, then back them out and replace with the brass when I am finished. The steel screws can cut a thread yet hold up to the extra force needed. When you insert the brass screws be sure to use a screwdriver with crisp edges and exactly fits the brass screws, this will help prevent the burrs and striping & scratching that most associate with brass screws.

Whenever I purchase my brass hinges & screws, I also purchase a set of exact sized steel screws to do the thread cutting.

BWillie,

Very nice work. Two questions for you. What did you use to make your figured maple POP like that? I don't seem to be able to do it.
Second - how did you curve the sides?

Al

Originally Posted by ciscokid

BWillie,

Very nice work. Two questions for you. What did you use to make your figured maple POP like that? I don't seem to be able to do it.
Second - how did you curve the sides?

Al

I've sent a PM so that we're polite to this thread's intent. Thanks. bc

I've been using a hot glue gun to align the hinges prior to marking out and fitting. Works well.

Hey BWillie - Don't be polite to the threads intent, jump in boots and all and tell everyone. I'm sure there are others who a dying to know as well.

You have permission from the owner of these forums...... me.

Cheers - Neil

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Hey BWillie - Don't be polite to the threads intent, jump in boots and all and tell everyone. I'm sure there are others who a dying to know as well.

You have permission from the owner of these forums...... me.

Cheers - Neil

Hey, it's my thread and I wanna know too. So please post.