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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    571

    Default Tas Oak/Amoora box

    I require some advice. I've got the box below and I'm not sure whether to bevel the edge where the lid and body meet. I'm thinking of a really small angle and only a few mm height, making it more pronounced on part of the side to act as a finger guide/hole/something so the lid can be grasped and removed easier. Yay or nay on this? I do need some kind of grasping thingy and I don't think handles will suit. The other issue I'd like to address is the slight fuzz you can see in one of the photos. This Amoora has proved to be quite fuzzy and cleaning the body and lid with a plane so they are flush still produced the fuzz in some parts. My thinking is the bevel would cut that away and prevent any future fuzzing through use.

    The finish on the outside is Haymes Danish Oil and I'll likely use the same on the inside. The base timber unexpectedly had some nice quilting so I'll tackle lining a box on my next one. I also wanted the Amoora to darken up a bit more with the oil - next time I use this timber I think I will stain it to contrast more with the Tas Oak.

    I have put in a guide around the interior of the lid so it can be located onto the body since this photo was taken and I probably shouldn't have until I'd done the bevel but here we are .

    IMG_20201212_123600.jpg IMG_20201213_155954.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Mooroolbark
    Posts
    332

    Default

    Hi Alkahestic,
    I've made quite a few boxes over the years and i usually just take the edge off tge base and lid with two passes of a block plane. It gives a nice feel and look but creates a subtle join line.
    Just my 2 cents worth.

    Cheers,
    Peter

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    1,033

    Default

    That is a very nice simple box, well proportioned.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    571

    Default

    Thanks woodtryer and Crocy. I'll take the suggestion and do a couple of light passes with my wee little violin plane. Any excuse to use it is a good excuse.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    798

    Default

    My opinion - I think Woodtryer’s suggestion is a good one

    Brian

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Cudgen NSW
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Are you going to fit a liner inside the box? I use 3mm thick timber that matches the lid inlay makes a good fit for the lid. I find that a fine bevel on all external surfaces looks good. THANKS.
    [/SIGPIC]Pigs a#@*. :cool:

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,449

    Default

    If the join or separation line is slightly off, then i would plane the edge, as woodtryer said 2 passes will be enough, but if your joinery is spot on and they meet perfectly, then you dont want to destroy that look, straight joints and a perfect meeting point of base to lid is something to be proud of and as such should be shown off.

    there are some very delicate unobtrusive handles, knobs or tabs to put on to act as a lid lift. But if you dont want to ruin than clean face, you can route 2 small indentations in the base with a dome bit about an inch back from the front edge, providing you the finger slot needed to lift the lid.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    571

    Default

    Many thanks for all of the input. I'm going to call this one done rather than tinker with it too much now, I reckon it's ok and the next one can use all the lessons learnt from this one. I think my biggest disappoint is my failure to recognize that the sides and top would be so close in color after Danish Oil and waxing. On the plus side, the quilting on the base and lid really popped, moreso in person than on camera.


    IMG_20201230_091520.jpg IMG_20201230_091534.jpg

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