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24th June 2011, 01:41 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Technique for splitting a box into a top and bottom
I have so far avoided any attempts at making a closed box and then splitting into 2 pieces.
Is there a preferred method for separating the 2 parts (bandsaw?, table saw?) and then finishing the 2 cut surfaces.
If I was to do it to a dovetailed box should I leave out a dovetail at the split line. Otherwise the spacing would end up being odd because of the wastage from cutting and finishing
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24th June 2011, 02:55 PM #2
I use a .8 mm slitting blade in the router table. The kerf is that small it is hardly noticeable and only requires a light sand to finish the job.
Regards
HaroldLearn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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24th June 2011, 04:19 PM #3Intermediate Member
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Splitting Blade on router?
I've never heard of this. 0.8mm is pretty impressive, where can I get one.
Cheers
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24th June 2011, 04:38 PM #4
I use the tablesaw to separate lid and base. Don't cut all the way through, leave about 0.5mm, and cut through that with a hand saw - Jap saw is good. Then pare away the bits that are left with a chisel, and finish off with sandpaper glued on a flat surface.
If you're cutting through dovetails, make the pin that you're cutting through about 3.5mm wider than the others, to allow for the kerf.
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24th June 2011, 04:45 PM #5
Hi stevlyn you can get them here. McJING Tools Online You will also need one of these McJING Tools Online
Also available at a number of other places just google slitting blade
These are actually HSS metal slitting blades but they work very well.
Keep the speed on your router down as low as it will go and don't force it through.
Regards
HaroldLast edited by pal; 24th June 2011 at 04:53 PM. Reason: forgot to say they are HSS blades designed for cutting metal.
Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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25th June 2011, 01:32 PM #6Intermediate Member
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Thanks Harold, I'll follow this up.
Cheers
Steve
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25th June 2011, 04:29 PM #7
One fairly common trick if you want a lip around the cut to allign the top is to cut half way through the sides from the inside befoe assembly, then cut the box through from the outside with the kerf offset so the outer edge of the second cut just meets the inner edge of the first cut.
When cutting the top off, cut two opposite sides, then pack the kerfs with packing and place a couple of masking tape wraps around the box. This will stop the box collapsing inwards when you are ready to cut the final side, and should help to give a consistant edge.
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25th June 2011, 10:19 PM #8
thats how i did my boxes as above. but i leave a very thin piece of timber and use a exacto knife to make the final cuts to stop the box from damaging it edge of the box
Regards Michaelenjoy life we are only here a short time not a long time
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26th June 2011, 02:16 AM #9
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26th June 2011, 09:35 AM #10
I use the TS to cut almost through the box all round and then us a box cutter knife to cut right through and a light sanding does the trick, no problems.
Reality is no background music.
Cheers John
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26th June 2011, 09:39 AM #11
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26th June 2011, 10:46 AM #12
Using the .8 mm slitting blade lets me insert a piece of melamine edge tape (which is .8 mm thick) into the cut then tape it with a couple of layers of masking tape to hold the box square then make the final cut. Bit of mucking about but it works for me.
Regards
HaroldLearn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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26th June 2011, 12:08 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Very interesting responses, I will try the offcut blade technique when I am a little bit more confident
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