Thread: What Tool Would You Use For This Work?

Hi Grindlestone,

Based on the boxes you have already made you will have no problem making "more professional" boxes.

I would go for a small table saw over a bandsaw for the boxes you are looking at making. Bandsaws are handy but based on what you are intending to make the table saw would be more suitable for your project. A second hand triton bench would be fine however unless portability isn't an issue for you then I would suggest trying to pick up a smaller table saw such as this one https://www.woodworkforums.com/f221/m...le-saw-155051/ or a small contractors or site saw.

Depending on how much work you think you may do with the table saw a full blown cabinet saw (around $1000+) that could take a dado stack would help speed up production time on your boxes and give you a very sharp finish.

Cheers

Stinky

I agree = table saw.

I have two problems with my "small" (Ryobi) 25cm table saw.

a) cheap, crappy, lightweight stand, the thing "bucks" when you start it up. I do not enjoy power tools that jump around. Just don't. Yes, I know, 200kg sand bags will solve that, BUT I have to move the saw to use it.

b) the saw table is very small = not more than 30cm feed space to the blade.
Maybe that won't bother you but for me to make duplicate fret cuts in the rough-out for wood carvings, it really is a pain.
= = =
Still, I like the saw. I use it for really rough work, shaping carving wood, ends and edges.

Grindlestone,
two comments:

I have used a triton 2000 to cut boxes from thin (3-12mm) MDF. A bit of care and they can be accurate to within 0.5mm or so. The good thing about the table saw is that it cuts very straight lines against a fence and if you cut the pieces in the correct order the dimensions (eg widths) will be consistent and fit well, even if not exactly the measurement you originally thought.

Another thought, though. If you could make clear boxes from perspex or polycarbonate, you could display the models with the box on, keeping them protected and clean.

Regards
SWK

Thanks heaps for these responses. I had wondered about the accuracy of the Triton, or whether it was prone to vibration that would make the handling of small components difficult. I also wonder about the suitability of an 10" SCMS for making small components. Clearly you cant rip long lengths with it but what about accurate crosscutting of parts?

I've made Perspex boxes. Even made a hexagonal Perspex wind tunnel for flying live but tethered insects. They make great showcases but dusting/static is an issue.
1. Don't stand in line with the cutting. If a TC tooth comes off the blade at speed and the tooth sticks in your forehead, it will spoil your day.
2. I assembled everything with masking tape. With a fine eyedropper (aka pipette), dribble chloroform down the seams = Perspex melts & fuses, solvent evaporates and you're done.

Hi,
One advantage with the Triton is when you get more ambitious you can add the router table for things like the Gifkin dovetail jig etc. You may not think so but I've been there done that, once you've experienced the accuracy of the table saw you get sucked in ask any of the guys with full sheds.
Regards