Thread: A type of lazy susan

Originally Posted by jow104

Thanks Skew, I might be pinching your idea as well, out at the shed at the moment knocking up the first lid.

Because my timber for lids has already been prepared to a thickness of 12mm and I need 17.5mm to accommodate the slant, would anyone advise me not to add a 5.5mm layer below each piece (glued) to make up the thickness?
I am concerned it might pull a warp?

I have cut six matching timbers on the bandsaw from the 12mm prepared wood and will put a 5mm layer beneath each lid to set in rebates.




The waste chamfers, (thats what comes about using a good quality blade on an ordinary bandsaw.)



Turned the main timbners over and laid out as per picture.


I think the project will shutdown now for a few days whilst setting up new tablesaw and leanring how to use the new equipment.

Obviously this answer's too late, but I'm not above chipping in my 2 cents worth of useless info.

Originally Posted by jow104

Because my timber for lids has already been prepared to a thickness of 12mm and I need 17.5mm to accommodate the slant, would anyone advise me not to add a 5.5mm layer below each piece (glued) to make up the thickness?
I am concerned it might pull a warp?

So long as it's the same type of wood glued in the same grain orientation, I can't see why it'd be a worry.

However, if you can see rings n the end grain, I think it best to "mirror" the direction of the rings just to be on the safe side. That way any cupping in one is "cancelled" by opposite cupping in the other. (In theory, anyway. )

Thanks Skew for the tip.

BTW, I am thinking I could rename the project. It would make a nice game in the office for staff to throw their paper clips in and each section or colour would be higher or lower score.

Or advanced tiddly winks, thats if these lids don't work out.

Got back to the lazy susan today, but now started using Japanese handsaws because each lid seems to need individual fitting. Also hand planing down to size but leaving the final fit until all these six boxes cut.







So thats four box lids on the way!

The last two lids were prepared this afternoon and all six are now roughly fitted;




To hold these six lids in position I have also made 6 inserts in ply and thse will be glued to the underside of lids as the means of keeping their positions.
They are each labelled because it was necessary to fit each individually.




Final pic. shows what I am trying to describe in above photo and three lids have been laid on those inserts.

It's looking good, JOW.

I particularly like the way the grain pattern appears to continue from the Sycamore(?) side onto the lid.

Wow nice work John very impressive thread

Look forward to the finished product

A greenie on the way

Fantastic john.thanks for the journey,cant wait till it is finished.

However I have had a panic attack I think the ply insert holders cheapen or lower the project and I got out my scrap boxes:



And found sufficient bits to remake the lower inserts in matching timbers to lids. Now I,m concerned that I might get a nasty reaction caused by grain/warp if I glue these pieces under the top lids instead of the original ply I cut.

So looking for a majority verdict on what I should do before I glue up.??



Incidently I hand cut the new bits using a bit of scrap offcut with a straight edge to ensure a decent cut to a drawn line..Never used this way of cutting before but I can fully recommend.






By the way, do I need to start a new thread if this one takes a long time to download?

I think I've said it before, but if you look at the end-grain of each piece and can determine the ring orientation, you're probably best gluing the pieces with "mirrored rings." That should minimise any cupping.

As for splitting the thread... I wouldn't. Even with longer DL time, I think it's best to keep all relevant posts in the one thread. Just my personal opinion, of course. That's where using thumbnails comes in handy, as it speeds up the DL time of threads with a lot of pix.

The lids are playing me up, They fitted at a dry trial run but with titebond3 on they are slipping or creeping.
When does the creep happen, whilst setting?

One minor trick that can help with creep is a few grains of fine sand (just a few, not great handfuls! ) placed in strategic spots on a glued face before applying the second piece.

With sufficient clamping force to close the gap, they'll bite into the wood, thus preventing any slip.

The grains of sand didn't work for me today, perhaps next time I might give them a tap with a lightweight hammer.

The six lids have now been roughly fitted and glued up to their insert bases but I have doubts about their stability and I might have to go back to ply or solid pieces and machine to shape on router.

Putting this portion away for a few days and return to the centre box which will need smaller pieces to compliment the design.