Walnut box

**detfall** · 12th July 2007, 07:53 AM

This is an older box than the multiplex box I showed in my last append. It was my second trial in box building. My first trial is this one http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B187.jpg My three Veritas planes http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B161.jpg which I used for the building of this box were brought along from a helpful German friend who was on vacation in British Columbia.

Because she carted the three planes from B.C around the half world for me. I would thank her with a jewel box. At a local wood dealer I found a nice grained walnut board , http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B280.jpg which served as base material. Due to the lack of an own planing machine I asked a cabinet maker to plane it to 20mm. After identifying the "chocolate site" (can you say this in English?) of the grain it was cuttted. http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B281.jpg A first impression of the future box looked like this: http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B282.jpg This was the front view http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B283.jpg
For the further work in progress I missed to shoot fotos, but here are some details. The board was mitered at the table saw. To enforce the miter I wanted to route a groove in the miter area. I wanted to route the groove on my woodrat (hopefully you have heard downunder from this fancy woodworking tool

) But the clamping turned out so complicated that I routed the groove under 45 degree at the table saw. ( Yes I know that this is a little bit dangerous)

I must confess that I felt not very comfortable when I dismounted the splitting wedge and I tried three times a dry run before I switched on the saw.

But everything went O.K. From a rest of bubinga I made the keys to enforce the miter and after several times of sanding I could glue the box together.

By the way, I glued the bottom in the groove too, but I am not sure that this was a good idea. The bottom was made from 4mm plywood. What would the more experienced woodworkers suggest in this case? Do you glue the bottom or must it be able to move in the groove?

Next the lid was made The maple board in the middle was framed by a selfmade inlay. The mortise and tenon for the walnut frame was done on the woodrat. For this kind of work the woodrat can hardly be beaten. Mortise and tenon took only a few minutes to produce.

The hinges were very expensive (16 € about 24 AUD) and were not easy to adjust.. The feet were made from beech and the chain was formerly used in an old cuckoo clock. After assembly, three times sanding and oiling (Danish oil) the box looked like this : http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B284.jpg
Because I had made several mistakes with my first box, I tried to have an eye on the correct following of the grain. Here you can see what I mean http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B285.jpg http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B286.jpg Here is a view of the open box http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B289.jpg The small inside box travels on a sliding rail. Here is another view. http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B288.jpg

Meanwhile the box is in use in the house of our friends. Usually it is filled with chocolate and sweets. And best of all: I get allways sweets from the box when we visit them.

Detlef

**MajorPanic** · 12th July 2007, 09:49 PM

Well done, very nice!!

If the bottom is made of ply then gluing it in was the correct thing to do. If it was solid timber, you still might be able to get away with it if BOTH sides are finished & it's a relatively small area.
If only one side is finished, over time the expansion & contraction of the unfinished side will finally split the bottom panel.

**Boxinator** · 13th July 2007, 02:30 PM

Awesome Detlef! That is a beautiful box and a great story. Those are some great planes you were able to get. Lucky dog

Thanks for the look see!

Corey

**GDL** · 13th July 2007, 05:14 PM

Very nice indeed.

In addition to the previous advise as a general rule I follow these guidlines:
1. Not necessary to allow for movement in ply, however I prefer to cut them 0.5mm - 1mm under size to avoid any problems at assembly.
2. When using solid timber as a base it is essential to allow for expansion and contraction as a result of changes in humidity. This movement is much more prominent accross the grain than it is along the grain. I generally allow at least 2mm per 100mm across the grain and 0.5mm per 100mm along the grain. It is best to secure the base regardless of the material used. However, when securing a solid timber base, place alignment marks at the centre of each end of the bottom of the box, and similarly at each end of the base. At assembly, place glue in the base groove at each end and use the alignment marks to centre the base. When the glue dries the base is secured at the centre of each end but can still expand an equal amount in both directions across the width.
Hope this helps
Regards
Greg

**highlander99920** · 17th July 2007, 07:55 PM

Thanks for the information on this, I have been looking for that for a box I am building, old walnut, well dried. 17" long by 11" wide. If I were to finish the box inside and out, before lining it, do you think I could make the top from a solid 1/2 piece of walnut that size and make it solid to the box?

Thanks

**highlander99920** · 17th July 2007, 07:56 PM

PS, that was a beautiful box.

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