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Thread: Watch Box

  1. #1
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    Default Watch Box

    Just completed for a friend's son. Bit fiddly doing the inserts but I wanted to keep the watches constrained laterally as well a providing them with enough height for ease of removal. Cushions were commercially sourced through eBay. Timbers were Jarrah, New Guinea Mahogany and Huon Pine. The side spacers are for both aesthetic and practical reasons as I felt - the box proportions looked too long and narrow otherwise and they provided room for fingers to access watches. The internal base and side spacers were covered with split suede pigskin. The knurled brass lift knob was a little larger than I wanted but the only one I could find in my shed and it seemed to fit the theme.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    shep1 (John)

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Nice box, shep. I particularly like the knob which is like an oversized watch winder. Good touch!

    Brian

  4. #3
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    Thanks Brian. It is actually the clamping knob from a very old and damaged marking gauge.
    cheers
    John
    shep1 (John)

  5. #4
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    Default

    I like it, well done

  6. #5
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    Default

    As double .d said

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by double.d View Post
    I like it, well done
    Quote Originally Posted by dinosour View Post
    As double .d said
    Thanks for that
    shep1 (John)

  8. #7
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    Default

    Very nice indeed - love the detail on the inside layout.

    What is the external finish? It certainly has brought out the colour and figure nicely.

  9. #8
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    Thank you Mr Brush - as for the finish - I hope this isn’t too long winded.

    I used a 3 part finish with lots of hand rubbing (and I mean lots��) between each. To get what I like (to see the grain and feel silky) in a finish I always prep by sanding through the grits to 240. For the exterior I used thin shellac (home brew) then rubbed back with 400 W&D lubricated with either citrus or wood wipe oil. Then I apply wipe on poly (Minwax, but nearly all gone and no Aus suppliers☹️) once applied, a vigorous rub with dry cloth to remove any traces then back to the 400 lubricated with oil as above. After overnight drying I rubbed in a sparing amount of carnauba wax.
    The Huon pine internal dividers were just sprayed with Mirotone Spraylac from their touch up can and then rubbed back with 0000 steel wool and then carefully brushed.
    Hope this explains the process
    shep
    shep1 (John)

  10. #9
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    Thanks shep. I use much the same products, just with different processes. I'm almost out of satin Minwax Wipe-On too - when it's gone, it's gone.

    I'll have to try the 400 grit lubricated with finish. In the absence of Minwax WOP, I've started using Osmo Polyx (Hardwax Oil) applied by various means. One thing I haven't tried with it yet is sanding to 240 grit as recommended, apply one coat, wipe off and allow to dry, then go at the second coat wet with 400 grit W&D. I prefer the satin finish in the Polyx, but they do make a gloss version too. Seems to be a popular product among furniture makers, and very hard-wearing too. I also use the spray-on shellac on lighter timbers, where a couple of light coats does the job.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    Thanks shep. I use much the same products, just with different processes. I'm almost out of satin Minwax Wipe-On too - when it's gone, it's gone.

    I'll have to try the 400 grit lubricated with finish. In the absence of Minwax WOP, I've started using Osmo Polyx (Hardwax Oil) applied by various means. One thing I haven't tried with it yet is sanding to 240 grit as recommended, apply one coat, wipe off and allow to dry, then go at the second coat wet with 400 grit W&D. I prefer the satin finish in the Polyx, but they do make a gloss version too. Seems to be a popular product among furniture makers, and very hard-wearing too. I also use the spray-on shellac on lighter timbers, where a couple of light coats does the job.
    Haven't tried the Osmo Might give it a go when the Minwax is all gone. Also haven't tried spray on shellac. Is that easily got? Also should mention that after rubbing back with lubricated 400 I wipe all the traces fastidiously before the next step. I agree with you about a satin finish, I like the fact that it doesn't give a plasticky look like the gloss can sometimes do
    cheers
    shep1 (John)

  12. #11
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    This is the spray shellac I use

    20180606_121504_resized.jpg

    Quite a few large paint shops keep Zinsser products - I think I got this from Nowra Paints.

  13. #12
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    Hey shep - that wasn't you sitting out on our clothesline the other night was it??

    Tawny.jpg

  14. #13
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    Damn- sprung again
    shep1 (John)

  15. #14
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    That is a beautiful piece of work. It is lovely
    Cheers Kerry
    Kerry Larkan

    Melbourne Australia

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larkan View Post
    That is a beautiful piece of work. It is lovely
    Cheers Kerry
    Thanks Kerry, much appreciated
    shep1 (John)

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