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  1. #31
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    I placed it about half a mm, then adjusted if needed.

    My pins were not flush which meant the whole box side needed just under 1mm to come off, but no stress the #7 took care of this. Ideally you want the dovetails a little proud then flush them with a block plane which I'll do with the next batch.

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  3. #32
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    I've seen it recommended that you use a low angle block plane for this trimming
    Using a No7 is a brilliant

    Thanks for the wip

    I did wonder why you didn't use mitre joints with splines and/or keys


    Quote Originally Posted by groeneaj View Post
    I just took the first box out of the clamps and started flushing the dovetails with my very sharp #7. I put a sacrificial piece on the end so I didn't blow out the ends which seems to work well.

    The next few days I should be able to see some real progress.

    Input and comments welcome.

    Andy



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  4. #33
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    Hey Nick,
    I would have used a block plane if I were just trimming the dovetails, but my pins were slightly proud so I needed to take material off the whole side of the box. I'll fix my router setup so it won't happen again , but no stress (I enjoyed it).

  5. #34
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    Coming along well Andy. The weight of the #7 helps, I reckon.

    Just going back to a few posts ago...
    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    I think you could only use Alex's method with the table saw when using mitred joints for the box sides. I think it would be a great way, as you don't have to change the saw blade setting.

    It would not apply to dovetailed boxes, as you would see the 1/8" slot at the ends of the box; that is when a slot cutter around the internal perimeter of the box may be more appropriate to do that groove for the lid and base. You would have to be very careful doing the slot on the lid that it matches the slot on the sides, I think.
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    Correct. For dovetail or finger joint boxes, you would have to use either a slot cutter, or do it on a router table, being careful not to cut through the ends.
    You can use this method with half-blind dovetails, as long as the slots are inside of the half pins at the top & bottom. I'll be starting a WIP shortly showing this.
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  6. #35
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    Looking forward to it Alex

  7. #36
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    Me too, lots to learn from your posts Alex
    regards,

    Dengy

  8. #37
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    Default Re: WIP- 10 Display boxes

    I pulled the boards but today and ran them over the jointer to make sure they were still flat, which they weren't. I then brought them down to final dimension and ripped to 130mm.



    I also cleaned up the edges with my #7.



    I ended up getting 3 box carcasses out of this lot. I have another two boards that were saved, they're going to be used for the bases.



    I managed to dovetail one of the boxes.




    I know I'd be better off resawing, milling, cutting for 10 boxes and batch out these boxes like that which was my intention from the start. However I'm enjoying doing smaller batches at this stage.

    Andy

  9. #38
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    Totally agree about doing a few boxes at a time. That way any mistake in the process will not appear in all 10 boxes.

    Also, it makes for more interesting work, esp when you are able to see something for your efforts much sooner than if you did a Henry Ford assembly style build.

    The fingerjointed box looks terrific, well done
    regards,

    Dengy

  10. #39
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    It's probably the angle of the photo but they're actually dovetails.

  11. #40
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    sorry, slip of the tongue there Andy. Another seniors moment! Not thinking really well today. Must be this tropical heat. Felt sorry for the players in Melbourne today on the court in 40degC heat - crazy, and very dangerous. I would have thought that Tennis Australia had a duty of care towards their players.

    Actually, looking again at the sides, it does look like a finger joint, esp as the dovetails cannot be seen clearly
    regards,

    Dengy

  12. #41
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    Default Re: WIP- 10 Display boxes

    It was way too hot to be in the workshop today but I did manage to get some work done.

    I dressed and resawed a very twisted board and will use it for the bases, I should just get 3 out of it. I also finished the dovetails.




    Next I hope to fix up any blemishes in the box carcasses, resaw for the lids and glue up.

    Once I've split the boxes and start working on the trays and internal lining I think I'll start enjoying the process much more. Dressing rough timber and doing repetitive dovetails gets a bit boring....

    Thanks for looking.
    Andy

  13. #42
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    Default Re: WIP- 10 Display boxes

    4 down, 6 to go....



  14. #43
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    Good progress in the hot weather. Did you have any problems with wood movement in the heat?

    Have you tried using masking tape instead of clamps to pull the pieces together when making lid & bottom panels? Put it on one side, apply glue then put on other side. I've used it on up to 10mm panels.
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  15. #44
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    Default WIP- 10 Display boxes

    Looking good Andy.

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    Good progress in the hot weather. Did you have any problems with wood movement in the heat?

    Have you tried using masking tape instead of clamps to pull the pieces together when making lid & bottom panels? Put it on one side, apply glue then put on other side. I've used it on up to 10mm panels.
    Alex, I had a lot of trouble with the wood moving, some of the box sides have a 3mm high spot on one side, it's terribly frustrating. One of the lids warped even more and not sure if I can recover it. I'm thinking to resaw all my boards on Monday and let them sit for a few days.

    What's your opinion, is there something I should be doing differently?

    Thanks,
    Andy

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