Thread: WIP- 10 Display boxes

Good to see no sign of tearout on the jarrah dovetails, after a lot of work.

Carb-i-tool certainly make very good quality router bits. I recall Tom the Template Man saying much the same thing about them when he last visited Townsville for a demo of his SuperJig at the local JET store, now closed down.

As Fletty mentioned I have a very thick blade in my no.7. I was actually kindly given this plane by Ian, it was his fathers and he knew I was after one so he surprised me one day with this kind gift. I tuned it up and then put an IBC blade and chipbreaker in it -it works suburbly!

Today I decided to sharpen up my no.7 and block plane. I setup in the kitchen and started with flattening my stones. I am no expert on sharpening but I have found a method that works for me. I use Rob Cosman and David Charlesworths techniques and I get good results.




I sharpen two secondary bevels, one at 30 degrees with the 1000 stone and a micro bevel at 32 degrees on the 16000 stone. I learnt this off Rob Cosman and I get extremely sharp edges.



I use Charlesworths ruler trick on the back.



I then flatten the backs of my block plane working up to 16000. Thanks again Fletty for the 6000 stone you gave me a while back



The black you see is my phone (mirror finish).



The block plane is a bevel up plane, so it gets it's cutting angle from the bed angle (12 degrees) plus the bevel angle. The first iron I sharpened at 32 degrees and the second iron at 48 degrees, resulting in 44 and 60 degree cutting angles respectively.



Andy

Originally Posted by Dengue

Good to see no sign of tearout on the jarrah dovetails, after a lot of work.

Carb-i-tool certainly make very good quality router bits. I recall Tom the Template Man saying much the same thing about them when he last visited Townsville for a demo of his SuperJig at the local JET store, now closed down.

I did get some tearout on the outer pins, I'll need to fix them up after glue up. I'll take the next batch much slower through the router table.

Originally Posted by groeneaj

What's your opinion, is there something I should be doing differently?

Thanks,
Andy

Not really that I can see, just that sometimes in really hot weather, or when the temp/humidity changes a lot, timber will move even when it's been properly dried, quarter sawn and is a stable sort of timber. Hope you can recover it OK.

I ended up dressing one of faces of the box lids by hand. It's birds eye maple and it planed up beautifully with my 4 1/2.

Wow!! Beautiful job, Andy, wish I had your had tool skills and confidence

Originally Posted by Dengue

Wow!! Beautiful job, Andy, wish I had your had tool skills and confidence

I wish I had that piece of wood!

I actually purchased it a couple of years ago at a bargain price and it's been waiting to be used since. I should get two lids out of it depending on how much it moves after resawing.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

I wish I had that piece of wood!

You'd only waste it on pen making Nick

Anyone got any ideas on how to fix little bits of chipout on the box corners? I used glue and saw dust with ok results, but was wondering if anyone else has any good ideas?

glue in little slivers of similar timber then pare down

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

glue in little slivers of similar timber then pare down

The best way.

If they are very small, you may be able to fill them with matching wax. Not sure where you'd get wax sticks now, suspect Bunnings don't have them any more.
Another way is to tint epoxy to match and fix it while you're gluing up. Hard to get exactly right though.

Thanks for the help.
Would Jarrah coloured timber mate work? Or will it make it look even worse?

I'm not a great fan of wood fillers. The nominal colour often doesn't match what you have, or you don't get the same sheen as the timber when you put a finish on.
On the frames of my box I have a bit of a chip out which I'll be fixing with tinted epoxy when I glue up.