Thread: WIP- 10 Display boxes

Or use a Wasp sander in a drill press. If you have one. With the kit of adaptor pieces it is amazing what you can shape.
Regards

Andy, could you please post a sketch of what you are trying to do, or a pic of something similar. That way we are all on the same page

Fletty has been nice enough to invite me over again so I'll be able to use his spokeshaves and rasps to get my template done.

Today I split the box, routed the hinges and started to install the dividers. I don't like the thickness (too thick) so I'll have to dress and resaw some more Huon as its too short for the thicknesser. It won't go to waste as I'll be able to use it on another project.



I'll pre drill for the screws later but this is a dry fit.



I've had some bad luck with the Jarrah, mainly warping and splitting so I'm not where I want to be but there's no rush.


Andy

He's a top bloke

This will then be a meeting of the AA's ..........Alcohol Always

Hi Andy, how did you split the box? From the photo it looks a nice clean cut, or did you have to sand the edges, which makes it hard to get the lid and carcase matching exactly, according to the Roger Gifkin DVD #3?

I am a day or two behind you with the silky oak box I am making, my first with a lid, so learning lots from your posts. I made the 2nd pin 4mm wider to allow for the saw cut. I have a great piece of jarrah for the top, and for the bottom of the box another piece with a couple of 30 mm long narrow cracks one side through to big holey knot the other side; but not a problem, the knot would be covered up by the felt base.

Yes, you know the outcome. On the glue up, the terrible bottom piece ended up on the lid side, and the good piece of jarrah ended up as the base, with the ugly knot quite visible on the underside of the lid as you open the box. Thought of AlexS making his mistakes into design features, but that didn't help much here

Can't turn the box upside down because of the uneven pin arrangement that would result.

So , on the upper edge oif the lid, have mixed some Techniglue epoxy with some Tempura black powder paint and filled the cracks in. Because of your interest in filling gaps in Jarrah, have posted some pics for you. The epoxy as shown is the colour before the black powder is added.

In the pic below , you can see the difference in the lids before I glued up. The good lid was set to have a picture of a dinosaur engraved on it. Not sure how that will go with the alternative lid

Will post another tomorrow pic after it is cured and sanded.


crack_01.jpg
Original base on right is now the lid, complete with cracks


crack_02.jpg


crack_03.jpg

crack_04.jpg


crack_05.jpg

Thanks for the pics Dengy

I used the table saw to split the box then a very sharp block plane to clean up the saw marks. If the lid does not sit flush with the box you can lightly sand or use a block plane and create a shadow around the lid to make it look even with the box.

I tried Rogers technique with the spiral cutter in the router table but I prefer the table saw.

Did you cut right through with the TS? I always leave about 1mm, then finish it off with the Jap saw & clean up with a chisel.

Yep I left about 1mm then used a Dozuki saw but used my little block plane instead of a chisel.

I'd like to try using the bandsaw one day though

Dengue

bummer

woodturners use a mix of epoxy and coffee grounds (ie those left over from making an espresso etc)

IMHO works well and I've used it on flot work - can look natural as in a gum vein.

Dengy, I've done something very similar before and it's very frustrating!

Hi Andy, further to my above post and pics, where I mixed black paint powder from a kids toy shop with epoxy, you will see the final result in the pics below. Closeup view of the lid on the right. A bit had to tell apart from the dark vein of the timber

Will be interesting to se how it comes up when the whole lid is oiled. Will post more pics then.


Hope this helps with your jarrah boxes.


epoxy_1.jpgepoxy_2.jpg

Nice work Dengy!


I've just about finished the first box. It's taken me much longer than I'd planned as I had problems with timber movement etc. The next lot should be much faster but I'm in no rush to get them completed so I'll take my time.

Fletty was nice enough to invite me over on Australia day. I used his circle template as a template for my tray sides with success. We made a tray with finger joints which looked very nice, however being the person I am I liked the idea of dovetails to match the box. That doesn't mean that the tray I made at Flettys was a waste of time as it was great to have a prototype.

I made the tray today but I'm still yet to cut the curve. I was convinced I had a straight flush router bit with the bearing on the bottom but I didn't, so I need to go to bunnings tonight to pick one up as its convenient.



I also finished fitting the internal dividers. I still need to round them over.



I'll be done by tomorrow with the first finish going on tomorrow afternoon.

I'm using thinned shellac as a sanding sealer with a few coats of thinned kunos oil.

Box number 1 done!

Noice