Thread: WIP - Cutlery Box

G'day Wendy,
How "stuck-together" is the structure at the moment???

Very loose - take out the nails and she'll just fall in a big heap

Great,
then you could cut those furry type critter slots (rabbets or whatever) in the corner posts and the internal sides to insert a base?? Would that support the weight??

ps (I love answering question with at least two more questions)

Hi Watson,

You are right - the only sure thing I've come up with is what you've said, that I will have to cut slots into the legs as support for that area. I'm now thinking that I may need to put in a middle leg or two under the base. My thinking for this is that with all that cutley in there, whatever base I put in will eventually bow and maybe break.

Maybe I should make the legs shorter so it's more of a flat on the bench-type box and then put a rim around the base to hide the bottom


Hmm, no, I think it would be a completely different box if I did that. i think it needs the legs, maybe change it to a jewellry box instead?? Nope, it wants to be a cutlery box!!

Aw heck, I might just wrap it up and stuff in the back of a cupboard again

cheers
Wendy

If you use a thin bottom it could be supported by the dividers

Like Echnidna says use the dividers. Make the dividers substantial and rebate the base, in seperate pieces into the sides of the dividers. Smaller base sections will be less prone to bending.

What is wrong with glueing a strip of wood along the bottom of each side/front/back forming a cleat that a bottom would sit on. Add the slot in the leg as was suggested and you would have a strong bottom w/o screws and such.

Nice work Wendy gee wiz, the new shed has made you productive, I can only give a virtual greeny as the board wants me to spread then around and it thinks that I have given you enough.

Phil

Hickory, I like your idea. If I did that as well as included Echnidna's and NCArcher's ideas, it would add a little lip to the sides which wouldn't look out of place if the dimensions are right, and the strength would also be there with dividers as well.

Cool. I think I can now stick these ideas into the back of my head to stew for a little while longer, but these are the best suggestions.

Thanks!!

cheers
Wendy

I don't think the dividers need to be very thick, 1/4" thick would be stiff enough even if supporting a thin bottom.

Originally Posted by echnidna

I don't think the dividers need to be very thick, 1/4" thick would be stiff enough even if supporting a thin bottom.

Absolutely correct. The strength comes from their depth, not their thickness. The bottom needs to be firmly attached to the dividers - maybe screwed with the screws covered by a veneer?

I think a thin bottom would be fine without any further strengthing as long as it is fully supported on all four edges. After all, kitchen drawers have thin bottoms and are often filled to the brim with heavy cutlery and such. I'd do it with a rebate on all four edges which the bottom would slide into. As long as the edges of the bottom are supported it should be fine.

For the dividers I'd go with thin slotted boards that are not attatched at all. Interlocking slots would be plenty strong to keep things in their place. And done tightly, they joinery would not show at all. Then, if for some reason you added pieces later the dividers could be easily reworked as well. http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/images/Jewelry%20Box.jpg

My two cents.

labolle.

good website labolle

HI Wendy, how did you finish the top? Erich