Thread: WIP - Jewellry Boxes

thats a good read, thanks for putting in the effort to put it in a thread . good work

You are a great teacher chris. Thanks for your time and effort.

excellent thread chris, loved the pics
well worth the read !!!
i'm always being creative in my woodwork, certainly good to have tips and tricks to restore an otherwise ruined piece.
i like the idea of leaving 1/2 mm when parting the top, good idea

you putting hinges on the lid ??? my blunders come from hinges, give me the %%#$'s - router fence will solve part the problem. be interested to see what you come up with

cheers
tony

Thanks for all the replies, you lot - appreciated.

tonysa - yes there will be hinges (or all in one hinge/stay combination) and yes they are the most troublesome part of the construction. I'm sure the keyboard will get a workout when I report on them.
Even though the boxes are all slightly different dimensions due to the timber available, I purposely made the sides all the same thickness, so when it came time to rout slots to house the hinges, I could set up the router, fence and stops to do all at once :confused: That's the theory anyway.

Chris

Nice work - love the WIPs.

But I think a greenie is deserved for showing your Notebook and that you did write down pertinent info.

Lovely boxes. Keep em coming

cheers
Wendy

thanks chris for sharing your methods on boxmaking, very informative.great photos. its good to know that we all have our little inconveniences with dovetailing.its a good learning curve on how to make the those small blemishes blend in as if they hadn't happened.i like the different timbers your using and look forward to the finished boxes.
cheers wardy

Great thread Chris, from where I'm sitting the boxes are looking fantastic. Remember your only human and mistakes are part of life.
What router bit are you using to create the floating panel of the lid, I think it makes the box look very stylish with out over doing it.
Keep up the great work.

Cheers,

Evan

Thanks All,

Tex - I cut a plain rebate around the edge, set up so there was a bit of clearance (0.5mm or slightly more) between the end of the floating panel and it's housing, and the panel face would be set so the sides were slightly proud of the panel, to allow a bit of adjusting to get the box dead flat on the bottom for example. The the chamfer was cut with a plain 45deg bit and a fence.

In the diagram, "a" is a bit smaller than "b", and "c" is a bit smaller that "d"

:confused: clear as mud?

When routing, always cut the ends with cross grain first, then the edges with long grain. Any tearout on the end of the cut (almost inevitable) can be trimmed off when you do the long grain edge.

You really need a fence and router table for this, and do lots of test cuts in pine scraps, use verniers if you have them, and then do the cuts for real.

Chris

Excellent, excellent thread, Chris. The photos are really good, and the explanation of what is going on is very clear. I'm especially impressed that you had the cool-headedness to take photos during glue-up. I'm always in such a state of nervousness at this point that photography is the last thing I think of.

For this one:


I think part of the problem with the repair was that the gap on the left was so thin that your slip of veneer buckled at you slid it in. Would recommend cutting a sawkerf in there with a tenon saw to make it a bit wider, then fitting the veneer to that. A similar technique would probably help on the right hand gap too.

Greeny on way.

Thanks for the comments, Zenwood - I agree with you, I will try this next time, increase the gap so I can get a better piece of veneer in. The problem would be matching the grain, but I think your right.

Chris

TexI cut a plain rebate around the edge, set up so there was a bit of clearance (0.5mm or slightly more) between the end of the floating panel and it's housing, and the panel face would be set so the sides were slightly proud of the panel, to allow a bit of adjusting to get the box dead flat on the bottom for example. The the chamfer was cut with a plain 45deg bit and a fence."


Chris,

Thanks

TexI cut a plain rebate around the edge, set up so there was a bit of clearance (0.5mm or slightly more) between the end of the floating panel and it's housing, and the panel face would be set so the sides were slightly proud of the panel, to allow a bit of adjusting to get the box dead flat on the bottom for example. The the chamfer was cut with a plain 45deg bit and a fence."


Chris,

Thanks for the info, it seems pretty straight forward and even better it doesn't require the purchase of more router bits.

Cheers,

Evan

Finally, something to report...

Must apologise for the extended delay, several attacks by viruses and bacteria unknown, as well as other duties, but I am back.

The next step in the box(s) saga involves the runners, so:

pic 1 - cutting a lot of strips, and I had to use 2 bits of timber, with slightly different colours (I think the timber was Mountain Ash), so I will use the lighter ones for the lighter coloured boxes and the darker ones for the darker boxes.

pic 2 - the strips are sanded smooth and cut slightly overlength, and carefully trimmed to the exact length on the shooting board in the background.

pic 3 - the strips are then glued and cramped in place.

More as soon as I can.

Chris

pics 4, 5, 6 - Adding my mark. I thought I would add the next 3 pictures since this subject has come up in another thread.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38708 and
there was another one recently, which I can't find now.

I used to use a rubber stamp with black archival ink for marking things I had made, as I thought makers mark badges were overkill for small items. After talking to Chris Vesper, he put me onto a mob in Melbourne who make punches to order. They were very efficient, gave me a lot of help in the design, and were very prompt in delivery. I'm not involved with the company, just a very satisfied customer.
The name of the mob is Unimark, 60 Sheehan Rd, Heidelburg West, 3081
The person I dealt with is Paul Rushton email: [email protected]
It cost me about $180 for a 1" sqare punch, and is for use on timber or brass.
My only problem with it is one of my technique hitting it with a hammer and occasionally getting double marking slightly out of register, I assume the hammer bounces off and then rehits the punch. I wonder if a dead blow hammer would fix this?

Obviously the box bottom is supported with a big lump of wood underneath before I belt it.

If you were thinking of some way to mark your work that wasn't too big, consider a punch.

Chris