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Thread: Damo's Universal Router Lifter
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15th February 2008, 11:39 PM #1
Damo's Universal Router Lifter
I was messing around with the 3D program and thought I'd post the results. This is a pretty simple solution to lifting any type of router and doesn't require much more than some plate steel, threaded rod and a few nuts. (Plenty of them in 'er)
Attachment 67342 Attachment 67343
Nothing new, but might help someone...
DamienIs it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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15th February 2008 11:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th February 2008, 07:38 AM #2Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Good idea... but I don't think it will work.. wont the weight of the router pushing against then lifting force cause the slider to jam similar to the principle of a clamp
les
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16th February 2008, 08:27 AM #3
I'm a bit confused. How do you fasten the router to it ?
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16th February 2008, 01:08 PM #4I'm a bit confused. How do you fasten the router to it ? 16th Feb 2008 06:38 AM
Good idea... but I don't think it will work.. wont the weight of the router pushing against then lifting force cause the slider to jam similar to the principle of a clamp
It's a good idea Damien, one that I will adapt for my router table in the not so distant future, thank you.
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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16th February 2008, 02:16 PM #5
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16th February 2008, 02:52 PM #6
That would be my understanding of it. The tab on the bottom would press up against the bottom/top of router and as you wind up the thread, it would pull the router up. Thinking about it now, it would mean that the springs in the plunge rods would have to stay. As the router isn't fixed in any way, you would be relying on the springs to push the machine down again.
RobertLast edited by specialist; 16th February 2008 at 02:55 PM. Reason: I'm stupid
Check my facebook:rhbtimber
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16th February 2008, 06:22 PM #7
yep, I was thinking something similar.
Also, I know the springs are pushing it down, but I'd want the router to be fixed anyway. No movement at whatever depth I want. So, I'd have to get my hand under there anyway to lock it on/off.
This is what I've got on mine. I just epoxied onto the fineadjust shaft a big nut. And when I wanted to raise/drop the router fast I do it with a cordless and socket. Else I just make fine adjustments by reaching under and turn a 1/2 turn or whatever.
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16th February 2008, 10:28 PM #8
Glad to see the thread arousing a bit of interest. Some good points about clamping. These are easily overcome by making the leg a flat surface that faces the router with a T strenghtener welded in behind, The runner or slide can then also be a flat piece of steel...
The first two show the modifications:
- Threaded rod at front
- Extension of guide steel
This idea turns the steel to have two flat surfaces running on each other.
Attachment 67422 Attachment 67423
As far as springs go, I've got a Makita 3612BR in the table and it slides down without the aid of springs. A mate of mine called Isaac says it has something to do with apples...
Damien
PS. These are just ideas. I doubt I'd cut through plate steel just to centre the threaded rods and nuts. Easily done in a 3D program though...Is it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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16th February 2008, 11:18 PM #9
Yes that's a better design. for the guide on the bottom though I would just drill out the thread in a nut and tack that to the plate for a centre and then you wouldn't need to lock the thread in position, there would be zero backlash as all the weight would be carried on the bottom plate.
Just a long winded way to say only drill one hole?????
That is as good a way as any, Jake, and I agree that the router needs to be locked, I have the same problem, haveing to get under the table to adjust and lock. I tried to get by without doing it, but there is too much play in the plunge shafts to leave loose.
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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8th January 2013, 02:01 AM #10
About bloody time!
I actually built this a while back but it wasn't quite as good as I'd hoped. It was originally just the straight bit of steel with the four nuts and it wasn't moving smoothly enough under load. I extended the lifter and added two nuts to distribute the winding stress and she's good enough for the bush now...
lifter.JPG
This is a beech box with some teflon strips as well as both top and bottom bearings.
lifter (1).JPG lifter (2).JPG
Seen from the back and front.
lifter (3).JPG
This solution provides enough adjustment possibilities to centre the contact point.
lifter (4).JPG lifter (5).JPG lifter (6).JPG
Top nut affixed with a grub screw. I'm using the T from my socket set to drive it up and down at the moment.
(the slide in the table is a circle turner from another thread)
There is a bit of work involved in building it but I have to say, routing is a whole lot more fun when you can make adjustments (especially fine ones!) from the bench top.
DamienIs it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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