Thread: Damo's Universal Router Lifter

Good idea... but I don't think it will work.. wont the weight of the router pushing against then lifting force cause the slider to jam similar to the principle of a clamp
les

I'm a bit confused. How do you fasten the router to it ?

I'm a bit confused. How do you fasten the router to it ? 16th Feb 2008 06:38 AM

The concept of this type of lift is that the router is fixed into the table and the lift is totally independant of it. (fixed to the table beside it)

Good idea... but I don't think it will work.. wont the weight of the router pushing against then lifting force cause the slider to jam similar to the principle of a clamp

I agree, however this can be fixed by useing RHS instead of flat. The slide would need to be about 75mm long so that it would slide and the nuts need to be spaced to allow the thread not to jam. I used the same priciple on my router planer for the clamp. I have used this many times, pulled up tight to hold timber for routing and it has never jammed.

It's a good idea Damien, one that I will adapt for my router table in the not so distant future, thank you.

Robert

Originally Posted by specialist

The concept of this type of lift is that the router is fixed into the table and the lift is totally independant of it. (fixed to the table beside it)

So, a plunge type router is attached to the underside of the table and by turning the nut from atop you can lower/raise the router ?

That would be my understanding of it. The tab on the bottom would press up against the bottom/top of router and as you wind up the thread, it would pull the router up. Thinking about it now, it would mean that the springs in the plunge rods would have to stay. As the router isn't fixed in any way, you would be relying on the springs to push the machine down again.

Robert

Originally Posted by specialist

That would be my understanding of it. The tab on the bottom would press up against the bottom/top of router and as you wind up the thread, it would pull the router up. Thinking about it now, it would mean that the springs in the plunge rods would have to stay. As the router isn't fixed in any way, you would be relying on the springs to push the machine down again.

Robert

yep, I was thinking something similar.

Also, I know the springs are pushing it down, but I'd want the router to be fixed anyway. No movement at whatever depth I want. So, I'd have to get my hand under there anyway to lock it on/off.

This is what I've got on mine. I just epoxied onto the fineadjust shaft a big nut. And when I wanted to raise/drop the router fast I do it with a cordless and socket. Else I just make fine adjustments by reaching under and turn a 1/2 turn or whatever.

Glad to see the thread arousing a bit of interest. Some good points about clamping. These are easily overcome by making the leg a flat surface that faces the router with a T strenghtener welded in behind, The runner or slide can then also be a flat piece of steel...

The first two show the modifications:

• Threaded rod at front
• Extension of guide steel

Attachment 67420 Attachment 67421

This idea turns the steel to have two flat surfaces running on each other.

Attachment 67422 Attachment 67423

As far as springs go, I've got a Makita 3612BR in the table and it slides down without the aid of springs. A mate of mine called Isaac says it has something to do with apples...

Damien
PS. These are just ideas. I doubt I'd cut through plate steel just to centre the threaded rods and nuts. Easily done in a 3D program though...

Yes that's a better design. for the guide on the bottom though I would just drill out the thread in a nut and tack that to the plate for a centre and then you wouldn't need to lock the thread in position, there would be zero backlash as all the weight would be carried on the bottom plate.

Just a long winded way to say only drill one hole?????


That is as good a way as any, Jake, and I agree that the router needs to be locked, I have the same problem, haveing to get under the table to adjust and lock. I tried to get by without doing it, but there is too much play in the plunge shafts to leave loose.


Robert

I actually built this a while back but it wasn't quite as good as I'd hoped. It was originally just the straight bit of steel with the four nuts and it wasn't moving smoothly enough under load. I extended the lifter and added two nuts to distribute the winding stress and she's good enough for the bush now...



lifter.JPG

This is a beech box with some teflon strips as well as both top and bottom bearings.


lifter (1).JPG lifter (2).JPG

Seen from the back and front.


lifter (3).JPG

This solution provides enough adjustment possibilities to centre the contact point.


lifter (4).JPG lifter (5).JPG lifter (6).JPG

Top nut affixed with a grub screw. I'm using the T from my socket set to drive it up and down at the moment.
(the slide in the table is a circle turner from another thread)

There is a bit of work involved in building it but I have to say, routing is a whole lot more fun when you can make adjustments (especially fine ones!) from the bench top.

Damien