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4th June 2008, 01:49 PM #16
Same here! Hopefully we'll meet up again sometime.
I suppose I should clarify incase I didn't make it plain before. I'm not attacking any system, just trying to better understand why one would choose one or the other.
Woodrat have one enormous video on their website. It's over 1/2 hour and takes forever to download, but it gives an absolutely complete lesson on the machine, tennons, fingers, dovetails etc. It annoyed me though because some of what he says isn't correct.
Incra have a series of short videos showing their stuff in action.
I see the problem this way. To make any joint you have to control the job and the tool in 3 axis and introduce the two in a repeatable and steppable fashion. You have to be able to make fine adjustments to sort clearances out and you have to get the system up and runing quickly. Then there is flexability.
Jigs with set fingers limit flexability, you need a new set of fingers for every job (sounds like a safety talk ).
The leigh like all free routing jigs doesn't secure the router. That bothers me a bit, but the apparent need for special bits is more of a concern. I don't know about their setup but hopefully they have a quick system for getting your fingers where you want them.
Obviously the leigh and gifkins are specialised, and that has advantages as they can be optimised for the work.
Woodrat does more things and it has the tremendous advantage of compactness. It also holds long work well, so tennons on legs and so forth are accomodated well.
The big issue I see with the incra is indexing is more work than the others, but if you were knocking out 1/2 dozen drawers the same size or pattern it should actually be very quick. It's other big advantage is versatility of course. Your buying a fence that does joints rather than a jointing system. There is also capacity. You can get indexers up to 50 inches or something, which makes a pretty deep drawer
I suppose I should look more closely at the leigh to better understand why so many people like it.
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15th August 2008, 02:26 AM #17New Member
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Hi: Maybe this should be a new thread but I think it is appropriate here too. I'm contemplating the purchase of my first jig. After reading revies and comments on the internet regarding the various dovetail jigs available on the market I am gravitating toward the Stots Dovetail Master. It is $41.00 without the router bits and by all accounts is capable of as much as most of the expensive units.
Has anyone here had any experience with this template or have any comments. Thanks, George
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18th August 2008, 01:21 AM #18
Got the Trend CDJ600 (I think that's what it's called). Too lazy to go down to the workshop and check. Easy to use, easy to set up and works like a dream. Didn't cost the world either...
I hear people saying machine-made dovetails devalue pieces but I don't agree. I for one did not have to be dragged kicking and screaming into the present. Am I allowed to use glue or do I have to boil up a deer I've shot with a bow and arrow? How about screws? Handmade nails only?
Dovetails are attractive, strong joints that can be achieved quickly and easily with machine/jig usage. I don't see anyone hand sanding or chiseling out dados...Is it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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18th August 2008, 11:15 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Its got to be the Gifkins dovetail jig for its almost zen simplicity and incredible accuracy. As for getting one second hand... well, woodworkers just don't sell on a gifkins jig. Whatever you get, the jigs that work with a router in the table and the work piece held in a frame are much more accurate than jigs which rely on an upright hand-held router.(as Wongos' post above) Even tiny vertical wobbles of the router are amplified into large errors in the finished dovetail.
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18th August 2008, 11:44 PM #20
While I won't argue that mistakes made while holding a router will undoubtedly lead to inaccuracies, I can't endorse Len's comment that jigs designed for table mounted machines are more accurate.
I think the systems that rout both pieces in one go are inherintly accurate if the pieces have been correctly inserted and most importantly, the bit depth has been correctly set.Is it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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19th August 2008, 06:36 AM #21New Member
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Well, I have not yet decided on a jig and just to make things more difficult, I came across a like new Festool jig with two templates for sale this weekend for $250.00 U.S. I'm fighting the urge to by the unit even though it is a good price and the reviews I've read are good. (Talk about going from inexpensive to expensive. Sometimes I wonder about myself and think I need to be restrained.)
Among my concerns is that I will have to retrofit my router to accept the special router plate needed to work the Jig. Otherwise I would have to spring for an additional 350 for a router.
Any pros/cons on using this jig and is a Festool router a must to properly work the unit? Thanks, George
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23rd August 2008, 11:33 AM #22Novice
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There are jigs that support hand sawn dovetails and seem to be effective. I don't have the patience and prefer more regular cuts, letting the dovetail itself be the attractive feature and could care less if the join looks machined.
Leigh jigs, as a class tend to be limited in stock thickness, making the use of backer boards for stock that tends to tear out (e.g. plywood) somewhat limited. They are rather dedicated for box and dovetail joints. (Though I do love the look of the "bear's ears" joint and may breakdown some day and buy a Leigh just to do those.)
Incra (I have a Twin Linear) is superb with difficult stock, but you must pay attention to the setup and operation details. It delivers repeatable cuts and is quite accurate. Downside is that it has limits on the width of stock you can handle - no 24 inch boards for me. And cutting dovetails into boards that are long is a scarey proposition. On the other hand, I have done drawers with dovetails in cheap plywood without tearout and even done wood hinges.
Woodrat will deal with long and wide boards. Dovetails, boxjoints, mortice and tenon. No sweat. At least that is what its fans say. Very pricey if you cannot find it used. Router Boss looks like a close copy and I lump that into the same class.
None of these are exactly cheap and the real cheap knock offs of the Leigh class are likely problematic. There are reviews out there that could help you decide if you really want or have to go that way.
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25th August 2008, 02:47 PM #23
Hi guys,
I can only respond in terms of "one man's journey" and advise you of what works for me for dovetail jigs.
I bought a B&D jig in the early 70's and used it until the rest of my life took over from woodwork. When I started again in the 90's I bought a succession of unbranded Chinese and Taiwanese jigs and ended up progressing to a Carbatec Eurojig. My passion (obsession?) is box making so I gravitated to a Gifkin for boxes and, more recently, a Leigh 24" for chests.
This gives ME the mix that I need but I do like the description of the Gifkin being a zen like experience. I have a router plate with 2 Trend routers just for the Gifkin and that makes fine box making a joy.
Fletty
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27th December 2008, 07:46 PM #24New Member
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Leigh all the way for me. It is easy to set up but still ideal for production type runs. The ability to variably space the joints as well as ensure that half pins are on the ends perfectly every time is what really sets it apart. It is built to last, balancing the router on it is not a problem Makita 3612c unless you are unfortunately uncoordinated or particularly weak or infirm. The term dovetail jig is synonymous with Leigh. BTW if you simply want a single box it is often just as easy to cut by hand if you want two set up the leigh. Also the ability to cut joints on dramatically different thickness material I have used 32mm and 6mm on the same joint - the list is endless. I would never sell my Leigh.
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19th January 2009, 01:20 PM #25New Member
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Hi thanks for all the replies to put it into context they are woodworkers manufacturing doors windows and kitchen unit in situ in new buildings, they are mainly migrant workers fromt the central asian states tajikistan etc
They have access to most of the native woods and the expertise that has been passed down from practise and generations, However It does not include dovetial joints, dowel joints gunstock joints etc
i will include some pictures of work they have achieved if you like, Some of it is quite impressive
If i can teach them something that is going to expand their capability to continue working then i will do, i thought the use of a dovetail jig may have been the easiest and quickest way of describing what is required and then they can take it form there
There are a couple of dovetail jigs from leigh on ebay that i will bid for in the next week ready to take away with me next month
some of the work done so far enclosed
I have some more pictures and will submit them later
Thank you very much for your informed comments and replies, i am sorry it has taken so long to reply but my health has not been too good for some time but now on the mend
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24th July 2009, 11:30 PM #26Senior Member
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- Nov 2008
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- Perth
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Some years ago I came in possession of a B& D dovetail jig which has been lying around in a dark corner of my garage. The jig has no instruction on how to set up and use the gear. Has any one by any chance a copy of the instruction sheets on how to set up and use this particular jig? If so is there any chance of getting a copy posted on the forum.
regards
Mac
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7th August 2009, 10:40 AM #27Intermediate Member
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- Sep 2007
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- Brunswick
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Hi all,
What is a good price for a leigh d4r or 24" dovetail jig 2nd hand
mm
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7th August 2009, 07:13 PM #28
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7th August 2009, 07:24 PM #29
found it .......
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...tty+silverfish
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11th August 2009, 11:32 AM #30New Member
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- Jul 2009
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I realize this is an old thread but here is my experience. See number 13 in thread below.
"http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98823&highlight=dovetail"
Still lovin' it.
Jim
Editor's Note: Cross forum link removed
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