Thread: Edge trimming router jig

I like it Jill - simple is what usually works best.

Just a thought - if you moved the balance point it may work even easier.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/balance-point-34821/

Just a thought, regards,
Bob

I wasn't aware of the blance point idea before, buit it makes sense - will give it a go. I thought you would need something a bit heavier than the small bar of stainless steel, esp with the big router ( looks like an Hitachi TR12).

I also liked Template Tom's idea, esp when one side of the router base is flat and thereis not much base on the workpiece to maintain balance

I will definitely be applying both in the near future

thanks for the information Bob

Your welcome Jill.

Yes, it is a Hitachi TR12 - The piece of stainless was a scrap piece of plate 135L x 40W x 10 thick and seemed to work with only the addition of a couple of bolts and a piece of aluminium bar stock to clench it. As it worked I didn't experiment with added weight or less.

If memory serves me right you also have a Makita ROS but not the same model as mine - not sure if you missed it but this was an unpleasant surprise for me.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/ma...roblem-126960/

Regards,
Bob

thanks Bob, I was totally unaware of this problem with the Makita ROS. Thanks for the warning . Looks like I need tocarry a spare pad !
Does anyone know of any warning signs that indicate the pad should be changed before it disintegrates?

I am still not comfortable with my Makita ROS, as I still have not worked out a good way of landing it on the workpiece without any gouging.

Hi Bob, can you please educate me on the balance problem, as I am having trouble getting my head around it.
Where does the problem occur, and how does your outrigger solve the problem?

Basically, when using a rebate bit or some of the larger round-over bits on rails/stiles of doors - however, I have also found it much easier when using the router freehand on the edges of tabletops or panels. The TR12 is quite heavy and when using it on edges [the vertical centre of gravity is right on the edge or over the edge in open space and not fully supported on the job] it requires holding level as well as moving along the edge. Using the outrigger puts more weight over the job, resists tipping and just makes it easier to move as you are doing the routing.

I will be doing similar to your runner against the job in conjunction with my outrigger as I think it will make it easier to keep the router horizontal with no tipping. I gather from your description that you still need to apply some effort in keeping the runner against the job due to the centre of gravity of the router - the outrigger simply moves that centre further over the job making the router more self supporting.

Hope this makes it clearer.

Regards,
Bob

PS I don't get any gouging etc with the ROS as what works for me is turn it on [not flat out as mine is variable speed] and let it touch down [moving slowly] on the job with the base as perfectly parallel to the job as I can, my hands only guide the movement of the ROS and the weight of it [even though it is not heavy] is sufficient to get the job done. The only tip I could add is keep up a good supply of disks as disks which have lost their fresh sanding ability cost you more in time, effort and don't seem to finish the job properly. Any used disks which have life left in them [and most do] I use on a sanding block.

Hope it helps.

Thanks for this, Bob, much appreciated. I will give your outrigger a go.

With regards to putting the ROS down neatly, I attach a vacuum cleaner to the ROS outlet instead of the bag. I find the vacumm grabs it and pulls it down hard the last 5mm or so on to the workpiece

Sorry for the delay in replying, but I have been in Outback Qld doing a bit of touring, a bit hairy with all the rain they have had, but the country looks the best it has been in decades, with the creeks all running and the dams full. Another year of good rains should break the drought. Bit too dangerous to leave the bitumen, lots of the 4WD roads closed. The Thompson River at Longreach was awesome to cross - must have been 750m wide, and right up to the level of the 3 bridges spanning it. No wonder Longreach floods.

Thanks for the reply Jill - it has been wet here also but not to that extent - it seem all year that it has been mainly overcast with annoying showers rather than significant rain - really good [not] for the 20 solar panels which went in last January.

Re the Ros grabbing onto the wood - I also remove the bag when in the shed and attach my Karcher shop vac - obviously not the same suction as yours. Your comment does however bring to mind that if the suction is too great then the ROS can't function as it is designed as it will be fighting the suction while trying to randomly orbit. Do you get the same sort of gouging if you don't use the vacuum? If the answer is "No" then perhaps it would pay to add a bleeder to the vacuum to reduce the suction.

Just a thought, regards,
Bob