Thread: Gifkin dovetail Jig

That's a sweet looking box, and should last forever with all those dovetails.

Rob Cosman recommends not test fitting: cut them right first time, then tap them together. I've taken up that method, and got away with it so far (with varying amounts of "persuasion").

Originally Posted by Carry Pine

Yes. well a floor jack has a slight mechanical advantage over a rubber mallet...and it was necessary........

when it comes to applying pressure to separate parts, most bar clamps can be converted easily into separators. well all my cheap ones do. only the more expensive irwins dont do it. wonder why that is:confused: :confused: :confused:

Originally Posted by doug the slug

when it comes to applying pressure to separate parts, most bar clamps can be converted easily into separators. well all my cheap ones do. only the more expensive irwins dont do it. wonder why that is:confused: :confused: :confused:

My new (expensive) Irwins do.

Originally Posted by doug the slug

when it comes to applying pressure to separate parts, most bar clamps can be converted easily into separators. well all my cheap ones do. only the more expensive irwins dont do it. wonder why that is:confused: :confused: :confused:

Doug,

The box eventually went together with 13 shims, and that was tight. The original had 9 shims (that's the one that needed separating). I'd back my floor jack against your inverted clamps at 50 paces anyday! The sound of those joints sliding out was something special- like an elephant walking on a hardwood floor.

Graham

Originally Posted by Carry Pine

Doug,

The box eventually went together with 13 shims, and that was tight. The original had 9 shims (that's the one that needed separating). I'd back my floor jack against your inverted clamps at 50 paces anyday! The sound of those joints sliding out was something special- like an elephant walking on a hardwood floor.

Graham

well if ya gota put it together with a hammer ya gotta expect to need a hammer or better to get it apart again. personally, if it wont slide together without undue force dont force it together. geez how desparate are you to make it fit when it doesnt?

I agree with Doug. You shouldn't have them too tight. It needs to slide in and out snuggly but if you have to hammer them home, you can't test fit anything without fear of breaking a pin when you prise them apart again, especially on small boxes.

Originally Posted by Gumby

I agree with Doug. You shouldn't have them too tight. It needs to slide in and out snuggly but if you have to hammer them home, :confused: .

We agree totally

Hi Gary Pine.
I had to add a number of shimms over the period I was experimenting. Cannot remember how many. My problem was I thought the jig would have come set as required from gifkins. Once I got over that view all was okay.

regarding the wood width I measured the wood thickness required to even out the joints.

the tightness of the joints allowed for dry fitting.

I originally bought a Gifkin jig to make a production run of boxes for a friend who makes tofu - Its a soy bean curd type food - anyway the stuff gets squeezed in the box and the water from the tofu runs out - Then the box is dismantled for cleaning. No way!

Ever tried to pull apart a wet dovetail joint made in Hardwood!!!!

The fit of the original joint was so good that I didn't have to change the shims at all, or so I thought, I still can't get my early ones apart, live and learn. But I love Roger's Jig. it's a ripper.

Mat Roger at the Brissie show and i am impressed with it. I may end up with one yet after reading through the reports on the BB.

Shims and experiements and bloody hydraulic jacks! I think I'm going to have to do a photo series and write up on my Trend CDJ 600 and whack it on the board.

The instructions were simple and it works perfect every time:

1. Set bit at 17 mm.
2. Rout male and female in one go.
3. Put a bit of glue in
4. Tap together
5. Catch the latest episode of CSI Las Vegas

What's all the fuss about?



Damien.