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Thread: The Grid Jig
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4th March 2007, 11:45 AM #1
The Grid Jig
Ever since I extended the kitchen on my old man's sailing yacht, I've been interested in wooden grids. I tried making them back then and soon learned that accuracy is key. I've tried a few things since and had a system that was working but it still wasn't up to scratch. I gave it some thought and came up with this:
Damo's GRID JIG: (c) copyright / patents pending
This is a 600 x 500 x 10 mm stainless steel plate that I had cut with an abrasive water cutter. I knocked up the specs in Corel and 3 days later the postie delivered it.
Attachment 41228
The channels are exactly 22 mm wide and 10 mm apart. When using a 22 mm bush and a 12 mm straight flute bit, you get a grid with 20 mm holes. The equation is:
centre of channel = 22/2 = 11
outside edge of cut with a 12 mm bit = 12/2 = 6
11 - 6 = 5
+ steel 10 + 5 (next cut) = 20 mm
You can of course change bushes and flute bits to obtain varying sizes and strengths. The slots also allow for variation.
Depth = thickness of board/2 + thickness of template
Attachment 41229
Centre punch ensures holes are accurate
Attachment 41230
Away we go!
Attachment 41231
An example of evenly-spaced channels
Attachment 41232
Thread continues due to image constrictions.../Is it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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4th March 2007 11:45 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th March 2007, 11:47 AM #2
Continued...
Moving the template is no problem. 2 existing holes and a new one on the end.
Attachment 41233
Some variations for display purposes.
Attachment 41234
The different channel sizes separated ready for sawing
Attachment 41235
Sawing. Thickness = width of channel
Attachment 41236
Some examples...
Attachment 41237
The grid can be as big as you like. Additionally, turning the jig 45° enables diamond shaped grids.
The jig wasn't cheap. I think all up I paid around AUD500 with material, cutting and shipping. I intend to get a lifetime of use out of it so it was well worth it in my book. It doesn't have to be as big as the one I made so duplicating it would be cheaper. Would not recommend going under 600 mm in length though.
Damien
PS. Any darksiders who write that this is like dovetailing and should be done by hand should get a life. And an electric router - they're great mate!
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4th March 2007, 01:55 PM #3
That is a great jig Damien.
I imagine that it would also be a relatively easy matter to make a similar one from square stock and weld it together then grind it all flat again.
Even making it in chipboard is an option; though of course, it would then not have the strength and it would not retain the exactness of yoursBob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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5th March 2007, 12:44 AM #4
Thanks Bob. I considered welding one up but decided against it for 2 reasons:
1) Accuracy. The water cutting is 3/100mm accurate.
2) Heat warp. Abrasive water cutting is cold and doesn't warp the metal.
I'd be interested to hear from anyone who knocks one up another way...
DamienIs it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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5th March 2007, 10:47 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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It could be done on a CNC controlled punch press but they are not exactly thick on the ground. The accuracy would be the same or very close to it, though the thickness is restricted.
CHRIS
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5th March 2007, 11:02 AM #6
If you were going to CNC, then why would you go to a punch instead of a CNC router?
Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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5th March 2007, 12:24 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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5th March 2007, 12:31 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Great looking jig - as usual Damien.
Seeing you like this sort of construction - have you discovered the company called "Trip Trap" - I think they are from Denmark - they make all sorts of [expensive] stuff using the grid idea. I managesd to get a cheaper version of a laundry basket using the same idea.
Regards,
Bob
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