Thread: Leigh Problems

Originally Posted by haggismuncher

Fingers crossed the problem is solved.
I had been using two seperate Makita fixed base routers one cutting the tails with the real Leigh Guide Bushing and the one cutting the pins using the Makita bushing it came with. I took Mat and Cruzi's advice and usied one router and it seems like the problem has vanished.
Now I just have to buy a new real Leigh Guide Bushing for the second machine. That of course is when I can see from behind the huge pile of splinters and dust I create (may have to finally invest in a dust extractor and a VRS).

All I now need to do is to stop the damn thing from tearing out (is this possible when using Radiata?) and I will be as happy as a pig in poop.

Thanks to all for advice and suggestions.

Chris

Post a photo for us.....

Sorry about the quality of the pictures. As a photographer I make a good Geography teacher.

Chris

Originally Posted by Just George

Post a photo for us.....

Hi Cruzi,
post us a photo showing the spiral upcut results.
Thanks
Jack

Have not taken any pics of just dovetails, do have some WIP kinda pics with dovetails from old projects though.

Pine Carrcass unfinished 1

Pine Carcass Unfinished 2

Same 1 finished

Camphor dovetails, just like showing that one.

Might be doing some cedar ones next week, will try to remember pics

haggismuncher: seems like you are going in a bit hard with the dovetail cutter, try increasing your router speed a bit and slowing down the rate of cut, really creep into it.

I, same as Haggismuncher, get the same results. I've done a couple of practice runs with finger joints and the pics highlight the my problem with straight cuts
Regards
Jack

Looks like a few different problems there.

Is your router locked ? it might be "rocking" ie; still moving on the side the lock isn't.
Are the fingers all down on the backing board ?, they will flex if they are not all on the backing board.
Is your backing board the same thickness or thicker than your cut?, this prevents tearout on the back.
Is your timber cut square to begin with ?, unsquare timber can make the timber sit awkwardly and give varying results.
Is the timber held firmly across its width ? , there is no need to go tight with the leigh but you can have one side tighter than the other causing the timber to rock when cutting.
A spiral bit will help you a lot.
Try higher speeds and slower cutting.
The other solution as mentioned elsewhere in this thread is to sandwich your work piece between 2 sacrificial boards (eg ply or MDF).

HTH

Originally Posted by Cruzi

Looks like a few different problems there.

Is your router locked ? it might be "rocking" ie; still moving on the side the lock isn't.
Are the fingers all down on the backing board ?, they will flex if they are not all on the backing board.
Is your backing board the same thickness or thicker than your cut?, this prevents tearout on the back.
Is your timber cut square to begin with ?, unsquare timber can make the timber sit awkwardly and give varying results.
Is the timber held firmly across its width ? , there is no need to go tight with the leigh but you can have one side tighter than the other causing the timber to rock when cutting.
A spiral bit will help you a lot.
Try higher speeds and slower cutting.
The other solution as mentioned elsewhere in this thread is to sandwich your work piece between 2 sacrificial boards (eg ply or MDF).

HTH

Yes, the router is locked and haven't noticed the rocking, how do I adjust if it is?
Yes, all down on the backing board.
Yes, the backing board is the same thickness.
Yes, the timber is square.
The only things that I haven't tried is the spiral bit and the sacrificial boards, I'll have to go and spiral bit and let you know.
Thanks
Jack

Just one more thing b4 I go out hunting for the bit, any suggestions on the retailers that do sell this bit?
Thanks
Jack

Carbatec stock the CMT 8mm shank, 8mm cut bit suitable for Leigh jigs.

Part No 191-081-11

Originally Posted by Cruzi

Carbatec stock the CMT 8mm shank, 8mm cut bit suitable for Leigh jigs.

Part No 191-081-11

Thanks, I'll go down tomorrow
Best Regards
Jack

A whole day to myself allowed me to play in the workshop with the jig
The job for the day was to make a simple stool to allow our two year old to use now he has decided to toilet train himself, the plastic one he has is junk.

I ran in to a few problem....

Trying to stop the bit from shifting drove me nuts, the amount of times I would finish a series of pins or tails only to find that one end was 2 or 3mm lower. (Think I've solved that one with brute force, it would be nice not to put so much pressure on the collet.)

Also
I began to notice that when I cut tails the left hand was nice and clean right to the edge the right was hanging out maybe 2mm and rather ragged looking. (Refer to photos).

A strange one was that it was only at the extreme end of the pin size setting that I got a good fit, even then maybe a bit loose. (Should I be using the #90 and #150 cutter combination instead?)

I am using a D1258R on 19mm Pine and Tas Oak with the 5/8" guide and a #80 and a #140 straight cutter.

Just a quick very dumb question "Should a backing board be held vertically (ie doubling up boards) or horizontally to avoid tear out?"

Thanks

Chris

You should not have to tighten your collet so much, check to ensure the correct collet and reducer are in use and that they are clean and dry.

The offset is because your bit is not centred in the guide bush.

Backing board goes horizontally.

Thanks I'll retry on the weekend when I next have some "noisy workshop" time.Sleeping 2 year olds are such a pest.

Originally Posted by haggismuncher

Thanks I'll retry on the weekend when I next have some "noisy workshop" time.Sleeping 2 year olds are such a pest.

Not pests but little treasures......enjoy